oil for the b16b and s4c gearbox?


kinki2046

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Jul 3, 2014
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what kind of oil are highly recommended for b16b engine
and also for the s4c gearbox?

for the gearbox, except for the gearbox oil, it is need other lsd oil?

Thanks.
 
Honda MTF III :nice:
 
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Are you in the UK?

If so 10-40 engine oil is perfect.
 
Assuming stock LSD then honda mtf 3 is the best option tbh.
Engine oil I use gulf competition 10/40. I'm in England though.
 
For road use as said I'd use the Honda MTF3 for the 'box and the engine I'd personally run 0w40 or 5w40 If your in the UK as the temps can be quite low here, the 5w40 has a lower viscosity when cold. Honda recommend 5w30, But that's a bit light for some spirited driving IMO.

I found the car felt better on startup and the OEM oil pressure light went off marginally quicker with the 0w40 rather than 10w40 (I believed so anyway) on the cold 7am morning starts on the way to work.

Although this is me being pedantic, 10w40 will be fine :nice:.
 
MTF.jpg
 
no need to run fancy synthetic engine oils in the B series

Castrol GTX 10w40 semi-synth is what you need

ran this in my old B16B for 400 laps of knockhill and 58 laps of the ring (even without an external oil cooler) and never burnt a drop

B series are too old engine to bother using fancy oils in, K series I would always run on 5w40 fully synth on the other hand
 
no need to run fancy synthetic engine oils in the B series

Castrol GTX 10w40 semi-synth is what you need

ran this in my old B16B for 400 laps of knockhill and 58 laps of the ring (even without an external oil cooler) and never burnt a drop

B series are too old engine to bother using fancy oils in, K series I would always run on 5w40 fully synth on the other hand

Would you bother in a rebuilt one?
Forging mine for a turbo application and the first few miles obviously require very regular oil changes. At £50 odd a bottle gets expensive lol
 
Would you bother in a rebuilt one?
Forging mine for a turbo application and the first few miles obviously require very regular oil changes. At £50 odd a bottle gets expensive lol

With turbo a semi will break down much quicker. Your going to need a fully syth ester. I use triple ester 5 40 millers nanodrive in my b18 turbo teg and noticed a drop in temps compared to semi. Had mine in for a good 1k and oil is still clean and service interval can be extended to around 3-4k.
On a stock b series shell helix 10 40 I found works great.
 
I was thinking this about the temps.
Temps on the last engine where a shave under 120c that's with a large oil cooler too
 
I was thinking this about the temps.
Temps on the last engine where a shave under 120c that's with a large oil cooler too
Im peaking at 110c without internal/external cooler.
 
if you have a correctly sized oil cooler fitted which should keep temps at between 80-100 deg then semi synth is perfectly fine in a forged build

the oil is there to primarily lubricate the bearings in the bottom end / the cams and valvetrain, so being forged it doesn't make a whole lot of difference to what the oil has to do

if you do feel obliged to run a fully synth then castrol edge gets my vote, i'm a bit stuck that it is the only oil I can run in my M3, but I run it in the S2 aswell and it is spot on. Can usually get it cheap through eurocarparts. depending on what turbo you are using then a fully synth is probably a wise idea as the bearings will see massive temps on track, for NA B series semi-synth all the way

120 with an oil cooler on track seems excessive - i'd maybe look at other ways to improve the efficiency of the cooling system, one way of that on the B series is to remove the oil to water cooler sandwich plate on the rear of the block and replace with B20 water hard pipe and oil filter threaded insert. I ran my high comp B18 build like this, meant that the coolant is just circulating the block and not being heated up so much by the oil, oil cooling is fully taken care of by an external cooler.

hard to describe it properly over the internet, this pic shows the setup though

 
I've got something similar that came with Ian's block, (ijwhiteman)
His is basically the stock setup but with the lines pinched and welded shut. Basically the same thing and will work the same as the b20 set up you had?
 
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