Tuning B16B


Samuek9

Samuek9

スプーンスポーツホンダ
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Jan 5, 2011
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Looking to get some more power from my b16b would the below be sufficient enough? what else will i need to upgrade if i plan to go this route?

Skunk2 Cam Shafts (Stage 2),
AEM Adjustable Cam Gears ,
Skunk2 Titanium Retainers,
Skunk2 Racing Valve Springs

Will be keeping this car forever i think, so will swap a k20 when im in the financial position to do so.
 
So I won't need anything else? Should have enough compression to run the stage two tuner cams?
 
Not sure if you have these already but best to have a 2.5" exaust system, decat and a decent 4-2-1 manifold with a 2.5" collector like a Spoon, Toda, DC sports, etc, induction kit like a mugen, arc or TOP fuel with a cold air feed and make sure its well serviced before you get it mapped. All this will make sure you get the most from the tune. This is the list Henry gave me before he re-mapped my EK9! :)

Good luck!
 
to be honest if you are thinking of k20'ing it down the line then don't bother

it's a huge expense to do right, for all of the above and tuning you are looking at at least 2k, that would pay for a K20 / gearbox / swap mounts. sell your b16b stuff and that would pay towards a fair bit more of the swap

b16b is a great engine, but without gearing to keep it in the powerband it's a bit weak with the lack of torque

just my opinion really! i never bothered camming my b16b as i know it will always lack torque, no replacement for displacement as they say i guess!!
 
you wont need anything else i dont think, you'r looking at about €800+ for those parts and then the price of the map imo its well worth it but if your planning on going k20 in the near future then mayb you should hold off either way best of look with it
 
henry remapped my b18 aswel will be heading back soon for another map top guy:D
 
Maybe think of how much earlier you can afford a K20 swap when you don't spend this money?

Otherwise I'd rather get a B18C with JDM 98 spec manifold, will do much more than the mods described and cost the same, maybe _slightly_ more. If you don't already know: only difference between B16B en B18C block is pistons, crank and rods.
 
Depending on how far in the future you plan to get shot of that b16b I may be interested in taking it off your hands. It's not something I could afford now but next year it could be a possibility.
 
As the S2 cams are very aggressive they recommend you replace the valves as well. If not the oem valve shafts can stretch and in extreme cases the valve heads have been known to break off.
Why don't you build a really top class head with the S2 cams as they produce good power. Get it all polished, port matched, bigger TB etc.
Then when you have some more money build a really good B20 bottom end and remove your decent head from the b16 and fit to this b20.
Dam site easier to do.
Dunx
 
Some very sound advice in this thread, thank you all for your input. Duncan B20 hadn't even crossed my mind, but definitely worth a look into. I suppose it's all down to when I want to do the work obviously a k20 being on the expensive side it probably wouldn't be until winter next year while the cars off the road. Again thanks Duncan for taking the time to call me tonight, was getting slightly stressed.
 
That mods are useless without a ecu remap or a fully programmable ecu.

What ecu you need?

The one your tuner use. If your tuner has experience with a lot of aftermarket ecus, my vote goes for hondata s300.

My top 3

1. Hondata s300
2. Apexi Power FC
3. OBD1 Ecu Remap.

I think you should also raise your compression a little bit, since the B16B has around 10:8:1. Maybe a thiner head gasket will work perfectly :D

If I where you, I'll add aftermarket bolt ons, intake, header, catback and a ecu remap + dyno tuning.

With this dyno information you have a parting point for further tuning, then you can add the skunk2 valvetrain + camshafts and you can see if the car got any gains at all.

For example, in my case I didn't had any luck with the skunk2 pro series camshafts, I had to install the oem cams + valvetrain back. I was able to determine this because I had the dyno sheet with the oem cams + valve train.

And my last recommendation, stay away from ebay / cheap / copy parts.

type-r-dunk also shared with you some great advice :).

Bolt ons ??

http://www.ek9.org/forum/resource-area/9139-beginners-must-have-mods-ek9-ek4.html


Got a little more money ?

Stroke your b16B

http://www.ek9.org/forum/engine/8085-stroking-b16b.html

Got even more money ?

GO B20.

http://www.ek9.org/forum/engine/7867-loads-b20-information.html
 
Last edited:
Thanks RVM, the B20 thread was a great read.
 
If you can wait till about November to make up your mind you can come for a spin in my car as should have the engine done by then

circa 250bhp high comp B18C with close ratio box, should help give you some bad ideas :nerv:
 
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