Update on H-swap EK

Nathan Brooks

Heaveh foot
Joined
Jun 13, 2018
Messages
126
Car(s)
JDM H-Swap EK / JDM Accord CL-1 EuroR
Vacation starts tuesday buttttt I will be going to the other Island, possible on buying a DC5R to bring back as a daily but not sure. So as well my painter is free so Wednesday the work will commence:dance:
 

Nathan Brooks

Heaveh foot
Joined
Jun 13, 2018
Messages
126
Car(s)
JDM H-Swap EK / JDM Accord CL-1 EuroR
So today is update time, Wednesday the engine bay got sand down and prep for priming and spraying.

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That is all for now, will be back ;)
 

Nathan Brooks

Heaveh foot
Joined
Jun 13, 2018
Messages
126
Car(s)
JDM H-Swap EK / JDM Accord CL-1 EuroR
So saturday i finally got at the steering rack, used diesel to clean the interior and wire brushed down the exterior

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This is after the diesel wash, the other side i used the wire brush at work but it wasnt strong enough to take the paint off and most spots was hard to do.
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Did alot of cleaning with the diesel so objective will be to grease up the tracks and put back on the outter tie rods.

Now here was sunday work, minor but felt a bit good seeing it. Went at the exhaust studs, out with the old ones and in with HPR titanium exhaust manifold studs.

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Does have a nice look.

So Good Friday is the holiday, I plan go get everything ready to fit back in the engine bay as of friday morning.
 

Nathan Brooks

Heaveh foot
Joined
Jun 13, 2018
Messages
126
Car(s)
JDM H-Swap EK / JDM Accord CL-1 EuroR
Good morning my peeps,

Been a busy 5 weeks
1 week got covid, was okay by the saturday but im unvaxed so had to stay locked up for an additional week which i didnt mind, got time to relax a bit from vacation lol.

So i finally got the lines for the power steering sorted.
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Prepping to bronze weld them together
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4 hours later
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Thats all for now cause it's a rainy week on the island so will set it up as it calm down.
 

civicx3

Drop a gear & disappear!
Joined
Jul 22, 2009
Messages
1,772
Nice build :nice:

picture 1 - is the pipe bent when it comes out the nut? it looks like its bent enough to cause a problem with the fluid

picture 2 - are they both double flares? the one on the left looks like a single flare and you should never use single flares on anything high pressure

Ive never seen anyone weld this sort of pipe together. Why not make a new pipe with no joins? You can use cupro nickel ( kunifer ) because its cheap, you can bend it by hand, it never rusts, its better than copper ( which is banned in some countries ) and its easier to work with than steel
 

Nathan Brooks

Heaveh foot
Joined
Jun 13, 2018
Messages
126
Car(s)
JDM H-Swap EK / JDM Accord CL-1 EuroR
Nice build :nice:

picture 1 - is the pipe bent when it comes out the nut? it looks like its bent enough to cause a problem with the fluid

picture 2 - are they both double flares? the one on the left looks like a single flare and you should never use single flares on anything high pressure

Ive never seen anyone weld this sort of pipe together. Why not make a new pipe with no joins? You can use cupro nickel ( kunifer ) because its cheap, you can bend it by hand, it never rusts, its better than copper ( which is banned in some countries ) and its easier to work with than steel
Thanks bro and to answer your following questions:

Photo 1: its bend enough but the nut can slide back no difficulties and it looks a bit crimped at the spot but it was the angle from the camera

Photo 2: both are actually flared and i happen to use the old line as a example so can fit into the subframe and not touch when bolted up properly
(I do apologies for not getting to explain much of the entire thing since i was at work and just want to post before it got super busy which it did happen to as i shared the photos ).


For the pipe, it's a steel line and my collegue who is a welder heated it up for me and help assist with most bends and I kid you not, thats my first time hearing of "cupro nickel (kunifer)" in all honestly (dont laugh at me:troll:) but thanks for the heads up, i will look into it, maybe somebody on island has done this. I do however would love to have the cupro nickle to do over my brake lines since i will be keeping ABS cause here on this island, I really think it's needed for the way people drive!:bump:
 

Nathan Brooks

Heaveh foot
Joined
Jun 13, 2018
Messages
126
Car(s)
JDM H-Swap EK / JDM Accord CL-1 EuroR
So once the welder happen to heat and did the bending, we (he) used bronze to cover any cracks that may had form and stuff and we did a pressure check to ensure all is well before I re-installed the lines!
 

Nathan Brooks

Heaveh foot
Joined
Jun 13, 2018
Messages
126
Car(s)
JDM H-Swap EK / JDM Accord CL-1 EuroR
Time to clean up some bolts up, tis bout a simple wire brush down and then coated with this.

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So right now there seems to be paint/primer shortage on island but i manage to get the very last can of self-itching primer to do the wheel well, kudos to my buddy Rockman who give me advice on certain spraying and dealing with rust and so forth, most appreciated my dude.:dance:
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This wasnt the one i was suppose to get but sure it'll do the job either way!
 

Nathan Brooks

Heaveh foot
Joined
Jun 13, 2018
Messages
126
Car(s)
JDM H-Swap EK / JDM Accord CL-1 EuroR
So today i placed the mounts in the engine bay, on subframe and gearbox.
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Started to apply the self-itch primer on the wheel wells, only the passenger side cause the mosquitoes were very hectic when i went to apply the driver side coat.
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Nathan Brooks

Heaveh foot
Joined
Jun 13, 2018
Messages
126
Car(s)
JDM H-Swap EK / JDM Accord CL-1 EuroR
Update: So on the 24th June 7pm, a tow truck happen to hit me into another car and it was 3 car pile up and I got a wicked whiplash, was very hard having to get out of bed and worst my pickup was basically damage real bad even tho I manage to drive home.
First timer of being involve in a accident for the 9 years i've been driving so alot of pain on upper and back and neck. I did muster some strength after some massage therapy and go at the wheel well.

Before
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After
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This was with the VHT roll bar and chassis spray. Local store has been out of Epoxy spray so using that for now.

Will be making someone bolt back the subframe and motor up for me since my neck is still paining a bit from the incident. Maybe this weekend depending on things plus I realize I have to get the following in order:

• Clean A/C compressor
• Clean Alternator bolts
• Paint strip front subframe brace and spray
• Get new oil, oil filter, spark plugs, brake fluid and new belt for a/c and alternator.
 

Nathan Brooks

Heaveh foot
Joined
Jun 13, 2018
Messages
126
Car(s)
JDM H-Swap EK / JDM Accord CL-1 EuroR
Sup my peeps,

Doing alittle bit better
Today i finally cleaned the ABS module bracket and spray.
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This is after wire brushing
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Spray time
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Ready to bolt up.
I'm also going to place in the subframe and motor tonight so will have photos of that
 

Nathan Brooks

Heaveh foot
Joined
Jun 13, 2018
Messages
126
Car(s)
JDM H-Swap EK / JDM Accord CL-1 EuroR
So yesterday i was gonna post but was so exhausted after packing up and showering i fell asleep early for once on a sunday

So here you are.
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So subframe in and all. You gotta hear this (you will laugh) the ABS Module was touching the rack...i said nooo way that i decide to fix a problem and created another one:slap:
So unbolt the module bracket and may have to shift it forward a bit and got the ChaseBay kit on. It was so long i had everything cleaned up that i forget about the spacing there.

Oh btw check this little fab work I did for the cables before the subframe went int.
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Motor in.:x:

The rear mount isn't in as yet, gotta do some button up in the rear like put in the knock sensor and new hoses as well drain the oil and flush it out and connect up the FPR.

So will take photos of the upcoming progress.
 
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