B Swap into EJ9 High Idle, EML + Over Fuelling Issues


R1PPU

R1PPU

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Wondering if anyone could help.

Got a B16 going into a facelift EJ9 (OBD2B). Used the original D series loom, converted the IACV from 3 pin to 2 pin and added the wires for the knock sensor, VTEC oil pressure switch (grounded off the thermostat) and VTEC solenoid. We're using an OBD2B to OBD1 conversion harness with a P30, so it has the OEM map on it (for a B16).

The car started first time, however its displaying an EML. Tried bridging the 2 pins and the EML doesn't blink like everywhere says it should. Also tried a code reader in the OBD2 port but that wouldn't work either. The car only revs to roughly 3700rpm and feels like it has no power, I think this may be because of the EML, it may be limiting revs? Its also overfuelling (smells really rich) and popping and banging like crazy.

With everything connected, the car idle's at roughly 2800rpm. However, when the IACV plug is removed, the car dies. We managed to get it started without the IACV plugged in and changed the idle so that it sits at roughly 1400rpm (lowest we could get) as I need the car for uni.

Does anyone know what the issue could be?

Thanks for any help, really appreciate it!
 
Not sure why you bothered with that loom as you might aswell have just got a b16 loom, be a lot easier! Guess thats why you wont get a code off the car?

Anyways sounds like it might be an air leak problem (intake side) or an IACV problem
 
B16 loom is ~ £200, D series loom was £10 so made sense to me. The pinouts match from OBD1 to OBD2B (through the conversion harness) so I don't know why it's not giving out the code.

What makes you think its the IACV?

I'm going to test the TPS tomorrow, just been out and unplugged the connector when the cars been running and it didn't do anything, so it might be faulty? Unplugging the MAP stalled the car.
 
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You've not mixed up a couple of plugs?
I found that really easy to do when I replaced my first bseries.
It's an easy thing to try just unplugging and switching the plugs over for things like TPS and MAP if the lines reach.
(just about on mine so makes it obvs which is which)

High idle is usually an air leak, either through a hose or through the iacv not working properly but I'm surprised it reaches 2800rpm.

The EML being stuck on could quite simply be a plug on the wrong sensor (as mine was, I mixed up iacv and pas somehow and car wouldn't idle without throttle input from myself)

All this is assuming you've done the wiring conversion properly?
I've little experience in D2B swaps so in that department I can't help.
 
jesse888 said:
You've not mixed up a couple of plugs?
I found that really easy to do when I replaced my first bseries.
It's an easy thing to try just unplugging and switching the plugs over for things like TPS and MAP if the lines reach.
(just about on mine so makes it obvs which is which)

High idle is usually an air leak, either through a hose or through the iacv not working properly but I'm surprised it reaches 2800rpm.

The EML being stuck on could quite simply be a plug on the wrong sensor (as mine was, I mixed up iacv and pas somehow and car wouldn't idle without throttle input from myself)

All this is assuming you've done the wiring conversion properly?
I've little experience in D2B swaps so in that department I can't help.
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Not as far as I can tell, we labelled all the plugs when we pulled them off the D series engine and matched everything up to the B series engine....

Double checked the TPS and MAP connectors this morning, I got mixed up in the dark last night. When I unplug the MAP sensor the car dies, when I unplug the TPS nothing happens. Tried swapping them round, the idle is way lower but when I revved it, it just started misfiring.

Going to go to a friends tonight and try some parts from his Del Sol and check if they make a difference. His cars fine so they're known working parts! Just had a thought that I've not checked out the PCV valve, will do that too. Will double check for vac leaks too. I've noticed there's a small outlet of the inlet manifold near the one that goes to the brake booster, should that be routed to anything? and there's one on the top of the throttle body too that isn't going anywhere, but from what I've found is that they should go to the charcoal canister? So shouldn't be making a difference?

I've just checked the wiring again, the wires we added (VTEC solenoid, VTEC oil pressure and knock sensor) are all going to the right location on the ECU. The IACV wires has been moved to the right location at the ECU plug too so don't think its that either...
 
The little pipe goes to the charcoal canister aswell.
Mine idles like crap if I accidentally pull that hose off.
Just try blocking them off with your fingers and see how the idle reacts.
 
Cheers man, will give them both a try tonight!
 
Good luck bud.
Sorry I can't help much more than that, just keep at it and try to work methodically.
Will be worth the work/wait!
 
Cheers man! Yeah nothings ever easy haha.

Hope so! If we dont find the cause tonight I'll try an EK4 loom to see if we've screwed up the wiring somewhere
 
R1PPU said:
B16 loom is ~ £200, D series loom was £10 so made sense to me. The pinouts match from OBD1 to OBD2B (through the conversion harness) so I don't know why it's not giving out the code.

What makes you think its the IACV?

I'm going to test the TPS tomorrow, just been out and unplugged the connector when the cars been running and it didn't do anything, so it might be faulty? Unplugging the MAP stalled the car.
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No idea where you are getting charged that lol, sold mine for £100 and was advertised on here I'm sure.

Had idling issues before on my ek9, thought it was the ivac and was told it could be that. Turned out to be the ECU with a **** map, a p28 that was supposedly mapped. Got a b16 ivac here if needed.
 
So tried a different throttle body on it tonight that we know is good, made no difference at all. So my TPS and MAP sensor are fine.

Also tried to rebleed the coolant, after 45 minutes air was still coming out... Makes me think there may be an air leak somewhere? We checked but couldn't see any coolant dripping from any joints. Plugging in the IACV still increased the revs to 3k.

Checked that fitting at the back of the manifold, its a vac line for sure. Blocking it decreased the revs when the IACV was unplugged, but when it was plugged back in it didnt really make a difference.

LittleGeo said:
No idea where you are getting charged that lol, sold mine for £100 and was advertised on here I'm sure.

Had idling issues before on my ek9, thought it was the ivac and was told it could be that. Turned out to be the ECU with a **** map, a p28 that was supposedly mapped. Got a b16 ivac here if needed.
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Contacted a few breakers and they all said £200+

Yeah I think I'm going to try to get a hold of another ECU to try, was told mines was used in a car a few weeks ago and was fine though...
 
I recently had the same problem when converting to B18C.

My high idle was caused by a dirty IACV and required reprogramming using a voltmeter.
 
ek9_boi said:
I recently had the same problem when converting to B18C.

My high idle was caused by a dirty IACV and required reprogramming using a voltmeter.
Click to expand...

Any chance you could give a quick guide on how to do that? Thanks!!
 
Take your air intake off ,start car and put your hand over the TB to stop air ,car should cut out ,if not, you have air leak somewhere ,buy carb cleaner and spray over all hoses, and injectors, if car revs up ,you found leak.
Also a lad had same problem and it turned out to be his pcv valve,
Is your rad hoses getting hard ?
 
I'd imagine your iacv is a problem. Worth swapping to a buddies known working one.
A coolant leak can cause issue with the iacv aswell. Mine was hunting like mad in a cold start at japfest2 but I had a minor coolant leak. Since fixed the leak and haven't had any iacv issues since.

The constant bubbles - I've never been able to fully bleed a system either, I tend to just let the stat open and draw the coolant down. Wait for fan once and then go drive the car, I find that the air seems to escape out of the rad cap once the pressure is made. I just end up topping the bottle up alittle bit.
 
So turns out its the ECU thats gubbed! Tried Steve's ECU with the B18 map and the difference in how it idles and drives is insane.

Also managed to read the code off the car, its code 9 which is apparently CYL position. Will take a closer look into that once I've got a replacement ECU sorted!
 
R1PPU said:
So turns out its the ECU thats gubbed! Tried Steve's ECU with the B18 map and the difference in how it idles and drives is insane.

Also managed to read the code off the car, its code 9 which is apparently CYL position. Will take a closer look into that once I've got a replacement ECU sorted!
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I might have an ecu for you from my old red ek need to think were iv put it tho, if i find it you can try that
 
Seems like you had the same issue I did then. Can't trust they p28s, p30's ecu with funny maps on them unless you know where it's come from or had it mapped yourself.
 
Rossco155 said:
I might have an ecu for you from my old red ek need to think were iv put it tho, if i find it you can try that
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Cheers man, bought a P30 this morning. Thanks for the offer though!
 
New ECU is in, getting code 9 and code 22 now. Going to check the wiring over the weekend.

One step at a time and all that haha
 
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