Brake upgrade plans on the EJ6, Questions

[Techy]

OK, so I've done a rear disc conversion on my USDM 96 EJ6 CX hatch (the brakes came off of a 92 DA9 Integra). Now, I've noticed that my pedal has much more travel, which I was told would happen so no surprise there. I'm still using the stock CX brakes up front.

Now, to remedy the situation all I need to do is upgrade the master cylinder right?

SO, here's the scheduled upgrades. I plan to upgrade the master cylinder first to a Civic EX master cylinder. Then after engine maintenance, I plan to upgrade the front brakes to EX front brakes.

NOW, since I do plan to upgrade the front brakes to the larger EX brakes, I do not plan to change my proportioning valve but I will be running for a while on the smaller CX brakes after the master cylinder upgrade. So will I be fine for a while like that?

After that is the next dilemma.

I was looking at stainless steel braided brake lines on InLineFour.com, Goodridge lines to be exact and I'm unsure of which type to get. I'm gonna assume that after the EX front brake upgrade, the set for EX and Si's is the proper set since it says for larger rotors. But are they any longer than ones made for a CX/DX since the EX Coupes/Sedans and Si Coupes are longer than CX/DX hatches? From what I understand by looking under my car, I wouldn't think so but I could be wrong.

After a suspension overhaul (it's mostly stock), I'll upgrade the brakes further with something like slotted rotors and higher performance pads. The rear calipers will also be replaced too since one of them is a little messed up. My mechanic after doing the swap said it's fine for now but told me when I need to change the pads, to change both calipers as well.

Thanks for any help!

 

[blinx9900]

Techy i too have the USDM 1996 Civic CX, this is what i have and it all bolted up, no excessive pedal travel, in fact my car is known to be one of the better stopping civic's by most who have been in it:


-Front 94 Integra LS/GSR front spindle, 1993 civic EX (could use integra i just had Civic EX ones) Calipers
-Rear 94 Integra LS/GSR rear spindle, calipers, e-brake cables
-99-00 usdm civic SI Earls SS lines
-OEM brake booster
-OEM 13/16 Master Cylinder
-OEM prop valve (same as 99/00 si)

Hope this answers your questions, i would not upgade the MC or booster until you upgrade the front brakes first, this may solve the problem.

 

[tico_ek9]

no no no...wait a darn minute!
who ever told you this crap is full of it!
I have a 2000 hatch with CTR 5-lug conversion & I still have the civic dx master cylinder!
& trust me CTR calipers are bigger than a GSR OR EX.. so put that $$ somewhere else like front SI or GSR Conversion Ex isn't that much bigger!

 

[Techy]

But I have "excessive" travel in my brake pedal though. I was told it would happen if I did the rear brake conversion and nothing else and that's exactly what happened. It's not so much that it hinders the operation of my brakes but I have push the pedal much further for anything to happen and from what I was told, a larger master cylinder would shorten the dead space. It seems to me that if I put bigger front brakes on, it'd be even worse if I stuck with the OEM master cylinder.

Blinx I notice you have SS lines though. That also puts a little back into the pedal does it not? I'm still using stock lines and plan to swap them last.

 

[tico_ek9]

listen to me or go waste your $$ like a dummy! bleed your brakes properly! or the caliper mite be messed up!
this is how i bleed mine! have someone help!
start with:
1) rear passenger
a) pump 5 times & hold pedal
b) open the pressure valve on the caliper then close
c) continue to do so until you get good flow & all air is out (2-3 times)
2) rear drivers side
a) continue same series of steps
3)front driver side
4) front driver side
I do mine farthest to the closest

 

[blinx9900]

But I have "excessive" travel in my brake pedal though. I was told it would happen if I did the rear brake conversion and nothing else and that's exactly what happened. It's not so much that it hinders the operation of my brakes but I have push the pedal much further for anything to happen and from what I was told, a larger master cylinder would shorten the dead space. It seems to me that if I put bigger front brakes on, it'd be even worse if I stuck with the OEM master cylinder.

Blinx I notice you have SS lines though. That also puts a little back into the pedal does it not? I'm still using stock lines and plan to swap them last.

i used to have rubber lines though and i did not have excessive slack. What size is your OEM MC?

 

[RagingAngel]

listen to me or go waste your $$ like a dummy! bleed your brakes properly! or the caliper mite be messed up!
this is how i bleed mine! have someone help!
start with:
1) rear passenger
a) pump 5 times & hold pedal
b) open the pressure valve on the caliper then close

Yeah after you do it a few more times you might just rip the seal on the master cylinder too - then you got more problems with a sinking pedal.

Don't ask me how I know.

Mityvac Fluid Evacuator Transmission Oil Engine Change - eBay (item 200276203472 end time Feb-13-09 11:56:02 PST)

Techy - spend the money and get something like this. It make bleeding your brakes/clutch a breeze.

Don't feel comfortable purchasing on eBay?
Hand Pump Oil / Liquid Extractor - Specialty Tools - Tools - Griot's Garage

This is the exact one that I have and I paid almost double (shipping to Canada plus brokerage fees ) for this 3 years ago. I would have paid TRIPLE to avoid all the headaches/mess and pleading with friends/neighbors/parents (yes even mom was not spared) and eventually two ripped brake master cylinders

Here it is in action on the clutch slave and I also eventually did the power steering with it too.

I fully believe your sinking pedal situation is due to air in the system.

 

[blinx9900]

lol RangingAngel you had you mom help you bleed the brakes What makes the seals tear, i have never had this problem but certainly don't want to experience it.

 

[RagingAngel]

when you do the "pump and dump" method, some people let the pedal hit the floor before the other person closes up the valve.

Sure you can put a block of wood under the pedal to prevent excessive travel/a higher chance of tearing the seal.... but then you'd have to do the pump and dump a few more cycles because it doesn't allow the same quantity of fluid to be pushed out....which translates to more time wasted....

I speak strongly about this because it's such a tedious process with fill, pump, open, close....ARGhhhhh...!! Inefficient and improper...I'd rather let it all gravity bleed.