extract hp from b16b


bosniacrx said:
There is no noticeable gain if you do 1. and not do 2,3, but ok you have to start on something. good luck, hope you will like new engine.
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Which is why ultimately gearing offers the best real world advantage and "gains."
 
the thing is a really dont think i would enjoy the 4.9 final drive after seeing some videos, and to me doesnt look any faster then my 4.4........
 
EK9dan said:
the thing is a really dont think i would enjoy the 4.9 final drive after seeing some videos, and to me doesnt look any faster then my 4.4........
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All you need to do is race somebody from a rolling start in 2nd gear and when he or she beats you time and time again with less mods (except for gearing) - switch cars and enjoy pulling away from your own car - you'll likely rethink what you've stated.

No offense meant... just simply stating the facts from my personal experience as well as others who have signed up for gearing after having been victims... :drive:

yes there will be times when the final drive or even close gears can hurt you - in a particular corner in track if you're not sure if you should shift up/down ...but that is generally solved by raising the rev limit or you live with the compromise knowing that you are faster in all other instances.
 
no offense taken buddy :) You without a doubt have alot more expereince in these cars then i do......

So you reckon the 4.9 is the way to go? I really enjoy the lengh of the first 2 gears then 3rd onwards drag a bit, pick up well yeah, but do drag on............
 
For those who have some money to spend, I would recommend that you get the close gears.

However, for those who are on a budget, I would recommend the 4.9 for the most torque multiplication for the rather torqueless 16B.

Moreover, either close gear set OR final drive OR both together benefits from a lightweight flywheel. In this case, the lighter the better.

I'm not sure how many of you are comfortable fiddling around with transmission cases, but it's a good idea to endure a bit of bank breaking to get "all" the other associated parts replaced at the same time.

When doing a final drive/close gear set, we recommend changing the diff carrier bearings, the input shaft bearing, the pilot bearing, the throw out bearing, the flywheel and clutch.

If you want the full meal deal, then consider replacing any questionable looking syncros/hubs along with the factory helical LSD with a clutch pack unit.

It really really sucks to put everything back together to find out the clutch is slipping or there's some strange noise inside the case!
 
how easy would you say re building box and fitting replacement f/d or gear set is?
any specialist tools required?
i have some experience with gearboxes( stripped and replaced all bearings on a vw 020 box, re built a few diffs and messed with mini gearboxes/ diffs f/d's etc)but never any honda transmissions.
i'm not massively confident, but in the future i'd like to have a go.
what do you reckon? easy enough job?
 
b16 mini said:
how easy would you say re building box and fitting replacement f/d or gear set is?
any specialist tools required?
Click to expand...

I haven't taken a look inside the VW transmissions before, but for the Honda B, there's nothing really special required, a few blocks of wood and a bench vise is nice to have.

A press for the bearings is a good idea and also a gear/bearing puller. But I would imagine that this is standard issue for most transmission surgeries... :p
 
Honda B and D series transmissions are very simple and small transmissions. I was afraid when disassembling without reason!
 
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