How reiable on track?


jay_k said:
Looks good Lee, thanks for the video.

How low can you go with a K-Swap, you will see our 9 is slammed to the floor.

It is still so tempting to go and add a B18 crack and rods, and then some cams, springs, injectors, and p28 mapped. Just seems so much less work, and all our bushes are poly, upgrade gear linkages etc, We would have to refurb all the DC2 / EG parts used, upgrade the bushes etc.
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Looking at the whole picture, I would sell the 16B and look for a fresh B18C and slot it with a nice remap and some bolt on's.

Seems a lot of extra money and effort to sink into a track day only car IMO, Kwaps are by no means disappointing but for this situation I would stick to the tried and tested 18C, a great upgrade from a 16B, especially in your lightweight track car.

Each to their own and all that :nice:.
 
Kipper said:
Looking at the whole picture, I would sell the 16B and look for a fresh B18C and slot it with a nice remap and some bolt on's.

Seems a lot of extra money and effort to sink into a track day only car IMO, Kwaps are by no means disappointing but for this situation I would stick to the tried and tested 18C, a great upgrade from a 16B, especially in your lightweight track car.

Each to their own and all that :nice:.
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The more i look into the more i think B18 would be easier, less hassle, and more suited to our application.

I am able to get hold of a B18C bottom end with EK9 pistons quite cheaply from my friend. Then build a head to a good N/A spec. Parts are not that expensive. Fit it, map it. Sell B16B.
 
Ok guys, thanks for everyone's help. But i have decided to delay the K-Swap until the winter when the car is not being tracked.

We track it every 4 weeks, so I don't want it off the road, especially as the weather is picking up.

So now i have a B18C block freshly built with EK9 pistons, will swap the blocks over and map it. Then do k-swap over the winter.
 
And it didnt take long - Feck it. K is the way.

KSwap starts after 4th April as we have a track day booked.

Parts list - Any recomendations on what i have, will it do or are there any fragile parts etc?

K20A2 Engine / Gearbox
MFactory 1.0 Way LSD
Stage 1 Clutch
K-Tuned Swap Package Level 4, DSS Shafts, EKK2, No Cut Billet Shifter.
3" Exhaust
DC2 Rack & Subframe
DC2 Hard Collor Kit
DC2 Suspension Forks & Lower Arms
Polybushes
Oil Cooler
KPRO

Will start removal of B16B/Box/Loom/Shafts/Manifold/Exhaust/Mounts/Intake in a weeks time.

Cheers
Jay
 
Will have to have a track battle once both cars are finished. Could be interesting turbo 16b vs k20 in the same platform
 
jesse888 said:
Will have to have a track battle once both cars are finished. Could be interesting turbo 16b vs k20 in the same platform
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My money would be on the NA setup over 20 minutes of hard driving. I cant see a turbo lasting as long due to heat and tire slip.

What brake setup on both cars???
 
tama666 said:
My money would be on the NA setup over 20 minutes of hard driving. I cant see a turbo lasting as long due to heat and tire slip.

What brake setup on both cars???
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This is what my setup will be with K-Swap

K20A2
K-Tuned 4-2-1 Header
K-Tuned Intake
3" Exhaust
KPRO
1.0 Way MFactory Plate LSD
Stage 1 Exedy Clutch
Super Pro full polly suspension bush kit
K-Tuned billet Shifter
Integra JDM brake master cylinder and booster
New EK9 Calipers
EBC drilled and grooved heat treated discs Front and Rear
Carbone Lorraine RC6 Pads Front and Rear
Buddy club racing front camber arms
SPC rear camber arms
D2 Racing rear toe adjusters
Super Pro front caster increase kit
Buddy club racing skirts
SW Motorsports MSA/FIA Multi point Rollcage
Recaro SPG
Sparco EVO
Lifeline 2000 fire system
FIA battery kill with external pull cable
FIA led rain light
SW Motorsports tunnel mount switch panel
Push button start
Buddy club N+ racing dampers with custom springs
SW Motorsports front shocker mounts
15x7" Gspec wheels and Toyo R888 Tyres
Alloy race radiator
B&M fuel pressure gauge
Hel braided clutch line
Hel braided full car brake lines
Tilton bias adjuster
3 point front upper strut brace
Race light weight mini heater box and screen de-misters
Varley red top race batter dry cell type
OMP 330mm dished steering wheel
Light weight doors
Carbon rear diffuser
MOMO steering adaptor
Welded and sealed baulk head
Fia Plastics for Performance Lexan Window Kit fully formed with boarders and pro slider.

Car weighs 950kg with cage and half a tank of fuel with b16b.

Maybe running full slicks.
 
I highly recommend larger brakes for track...I burned up my ITRs first track event I did. Everyone is different tho...CTR calipers might work for you.
 
I was thinking Willwood 4 Pot 300mm discs, but unsure if they will fit under 15s.

I was quite impressed with the current setup, a few large braking zones and no fade, and was only locking up the unloaded tyre. Current setup with the B16B is EK4 calipers 242/262mm, EBC groved heat treated discs and Yellowstuffs.

I thought considering its so light the ITR setup would be ok and RC6 pads would continue working all day.
 
big brakes
plated diff
coilover setup
light tuned motor
that would be reliable.
 
Mine has been reliable engine wise, no issues at all, plenty of track action & raced, with 6 x 40 minute races in 2013, my only issue has been part of my gear linkage dropping into the box at Combe during qualy, 3hrs of mayhem with plenty of worry about stray parts frying my box, all good in the end.
I would not track it without a fully baffled sump, having seen the results of a few of those that did not bother, a painful lesson. Mine is just low enough to miss the high curbs should I have a moment out there, certainly something to be mindful of.
 
haitch said:
Mine has been reliable engine wise, no issues at all, plenty of track action & raced, with 6 x 40 minute races in 2013, my only issue has been part of my gear linkage dropping into the box at Combe during qualy, 3hrs of mayhem with plenty of worry about stray parts frying my box, all good in the end.
I would not track it without a fully baffled sump, having seen the results of a few of those that did not bother, a painful lesson. Mine is just low enough to miss the high curbs should I have a moment out there, certainly something to be mindful of.
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Ah yeah we will be putting in the baffles. Good point on ride height and sump clearance, will not be able to hit the kerbs at the Ring i dont think.
 
with a stock k20 your car is much more reliable on track and road compaired to a build b serie engine. Also more torque and bhp than a b series engine.
Stock b16/b18 is also great and reliable but doesn't has the k20 power.
 
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