i need to make my ek4 quick lol how?


abunai888 said:
:secret:aem cai intake
60,5 exhaust
dc 4-1 header
ecu tunning
aprox +-185ps
will be pretty stronger than now
but that will never be like your old ek9:(
Click to expand...

I think that this was the cheapest advise, so thank you. :):bow:
 
swap in a d16y7...lol youll be quicker lol j/k go b18c for more torque and power thats wat i got in both of my ek's love it
 
im just throwing ideas out here, but have you cosidered Noz?.. I know a few in AUS that use it, but only rarely there used. but if ur after daily kind of power then maybe b18c swap would do the trick :)
 
Why is everyone banging on about B18C? I know it's a fantastic upgrade, for an ek9 as well as an EK4, but it's not exactly the answer to everything! Why not suggest a B16B swap?! Cams, cam gears, S300 etc?

B18C swap would be awesome, but if you are worried about getting caught speeding, stick to the B16A pal, dropping a B18C in there is only going to make speed more! lol. Why not put ITB's on the B16A?! Jenvey do an really top of the line kit for the B16, not too expensive either, about £1500-2000 which would work out cheaper than the B18C, plus throttle response but would insane, not to mention probably the best intake noise EVER! If done correctly, and with the right mods, you could make a fair amount of power with these too!
 
i think he wants to use it as a dd so itb's wouldnt such a great idea....but u can just get bigger piping and exhaust, header, whale *****, chipped ecu or run a p73 then you'll be happy on that b16a plus its good for dd
 
At 19 & with 6 points to your name, making your EK4 quicker should be least of your priorities...

As has already been mentioned, it is assumed you are NOT going to declare a B18 swap or other mods, so you really shouldnt bother....

If/when you crash the car going too fast again, you will be left with no car & no payout as your insurance will be null & void...

Food for thought perhaps?
 
bro....

here some info from others forum...hope will help

- open pod
- FPR
- VAFC + tuning
-TB - 64mm
-Ratio - 4.7FD
-Clutch - Exedy 3 puck
-Piping - 2.23/2.3
-Flywheel - Toda 4.2 or 3.9
-Sard Fuel Regulator

or maybe u can upgrade to b16b head n port&polish
 
I'm curious as to why anyone would rather go for B16B over the B18C? I'm not taking the p!ss here, this is a genuine question.

Obviously I have B16B and I love it, but the B18C has more torque/power across the whole rev range...so if you have the choice of them both without already owning a B16B, then why go for it??

IMO you can splash money on the B16B, trying to get it to perform like a B18C or you can just drop a B18C in!

And then when you mod the B18C you have more power/torque/driveability on top again!

I could be totally missing something.
 
Let me be honest with you.
The b16a, b16b and b18c series engines all have their advantages/ disadvantages in each and own seperate way.

I'm in the process of building probably one of the most expensive n-asp b16a builds in the country. However its amazing how $$ soon adds up and bends you over and you are left with an empty wallet.

If i were to " start over " i would of gone turbo or nos or bigger displacement.
b16a :
At the end of the day you have a b16a. Nos it. blow it up. Laugh. Buy another b16a for peanuts. They go for about 200quid.
If i blow my build i lose BIG £$£$. The rods on their own work out about £600 + 10 week wait ( they are crower rods, but custom one off jobbies to fit a pr3 piston , and smaller bearings as found in the b16b / b18's ) portflow head etc etc.

b16b :
VERY nice engine, however why not just get the b18 itr motor.

b18c :
again very nice, can be built to some serious numbers if you select the right package of parts. Even stock , they are a potential motor with a hella more torque than the b16a/b.

All in all....
If you have a b16a , stick with it. Just bang some nitrous oxide on it !
 
Last edited:
xchipx said:
Let me be honest with you.
The b16a, b16b and b18c series engines all have their advantages/ disadvantages in each and own seperate way.

I'm in the process of building probably one of the most expensive n-asp b16a builds in the country. However its amazing how $$ soon adds up and bends you over and you are left with an empty wallet.

If i were to " start over " i would of gone turbo or nos or bigger displacement.
b16a :
At the end of the day you have a b16a. Nos it. blow it up. Laugh. Buy another b16a for peanuts. They go for about 200quid.
If i blow my build i lose BIG £$£$. The rods on their own work out about £600 + 10 week wait ( they are crower rods, but custom one off jobbies to fit a pr3 piston , and smaller bearings as found in the b16b / b18's ) portflow head etc etc.

b16b :
VERY nice engine, however why not just get the b18 itr motor.

b18c :
again very nice, can be built to some serious numbers if you select the right package of parts. Even stock , they are a potential motor with a hella more torque than the b16a/b.

All in all....
If you have a b16a , stick with it. Just bang some nitrous oxide on it !
Click to expand...
totally agreed !!!!
 
back to the question...

the question is "i need to make my ek4 quick lol how? "

u can choose 2 option :
1. upgrade to b18c or
2. mod the current engine

if u want to mod the current engine, i've gave u some input b4
 
thanks again guys for all the advice got some thinking to do but i think it would be safer if i mod the current engine lol as much as i would love a b18c but my insurance would kill me lol i am aloud a few mod with out makin my insure go up but i would have to check i think it depend wat is being done :)
 
Gee said:
I'm curious as to why anyone would rather go for B16B over the B18C? I'm not taking the p!ss here, this is a genuine question.

Obviously I have B16B and I love it, but the B18C has more torque/power across the whole rev range...so if you have the choice of them both without already owning a B16B, then why go for it??

IMO you can splash money on the B16B, trying to get it to perform like a B18C or you can just drop a B18C in!

And then when you mod the B18C you have more power/torque/driveability on top again!

I could be totally missing something.
Click to expand...

I was thinking maybe he'd like to move up in stages lol :p Plus I was thinking cost wise, surely the is B16B cheaper? But I guess in the grand scheme of things the costs wouldn't really out weigh the benefits.....
 
Going B16B, modding and then going B18C and modding again in stages kind of out weighs the cost argument LOL
 
Well if the insurance alloys a few mods....
In my experience that means an air filter and maybe a back box / muffler and maybe some lowering springs.
Start saying " header , full exhaust system , slammed on coilovers " and they will refuse to insure / premium go through the roof.

What i would do is perhaps put some type R cams in ( and v springs ) , type R manifold/header , type r inlet manifold and throttle body. Those parts are guaranteed to boost your output , and look stock / oem. Obviously youll want to get it mapped too.
 
I'm lucky.

My insurance company let me do as many modifications as I like.

They quote me on power, not mods. And it is on a like for like basis. Muhahaha!
 
The simple route would have been be a B18....

I had a play with a Civic Jordan VTi last night in mine...(sounded like it had breathing mods) & the Integra was a "good-bit" faster:secret:

Surprisingly so actually...:shocked:
 
go k20 lol !:D

itb seems to be the best mod if you want to stay na and b16a:nice:
 
Thats like us here in Gibraltar (Europe) they only charge us on the cars power...... mods arnt taken into place.......

I Currently own a EK4 with the J's intake and wouldnt change it for anything (LOUD)!!! Dude your 19!!! Enjoy the EK4 for a bit give it a nice intake, cam few bits and bobs and let the good times roll, "when" and "if" u get tired of the EK4 then go for the B18 engine or wait till ur old enough for the Integra!!!!!!

Youve got a guy with 6 points on his license (downgrading car model due to insurance problems) and ur givin him the idea of the b18 hahaha ,reason he went for the ek4 is because the ek9 was faster soooo where does this get us tooo??? I would just spend money on good internals and you'll notice the kick my opinion B18 is the easy way out (mod or ek m8)
 
Last edited:
For a 19yr old, changing the gearing is the best option - its cheap in tuning terms & easiest to hide..
As most have said at 6 points...take it easy.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top