Jesse888 Forged/stroker turbo ek9


Engine/box out of the car.
Same swarf on the sump plug, didn't bother inspecting the oil too hard but didn't see much of anything in there.
Tear down the engine tomorrow and see what's what.
No pictures, we've all seen how my car looks without an engine in it plenty of times now lol
 
Get afew updates on this but I've not got much time. Hopefully I can et abit of time later tonight.
 
Sooooo
Found out why the rear end was all over the place at brands last time out.
Wheel bearing lol

So replaced both rear bearings with new items from blueprint.

New brake fluid, gulf RF1000. This is essentially a motul660 equivalent but I didn't fancy the motul, likes be different lol
Also new front and rear pads, opted to stay with the same setup for now. I know how this works and feels so I'll stick with it whilst the engine saga continues.
New dizzy cap, rotor and ignitor aswell, you may have noticed some of my track videos when I come off throttle the Rev needle will drop to zero until I pick up the throttle again. Not sure what this is about but for £42 I can rebuild the whole thing pretty much so hopefully that won't cause issues at the ring!

CL RC6 up front. Love these but they kill wheels and brake discs lol


And finally, not so many pictures because it'll get abit boring keep seeing the same pictures of me having an engine built etc lol
So here's the bottom end complete.

And in the car


So a speedy run down of the new engine
Block honed and cleaned
Crank polished, cleaned and balanced
Flywheel resurfaced/cleaned/balanced
New RPC stage 3 clutch balanced
Distributor rebuilt
Head cleaned up and brake cleaner shot through all galleries
Vtec solenoid stripped/cleaned and reassembled
New Morosso sump

Something I feel worth mentioning, when I took my oil pump out of its packaging(brand new from japservice parts) still sealed in its plastic. I found a lot of what looked like machining dust in the inlet port of the pump. Surely something like this should be spotless straight out the packaging!?!
Needless to say pump was stripped down,cleaned and relubed before going on my new block.

This bottom end is my best effort so far and with the added security of not reusing the old b16b head or either of my coolers I'm hoping/quietly confident that this is the end of this!
I've got till japfest to get the engine running/run in and the whole car prept for the show/track session so I'm a busy bee ATM lol
Hoping to have an "engine is running" update end of the day but anything can happen and get in the way
 
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It's good you spotted the wheel bearing.. Haven't seen one that bad before!!

Good work on the engine build and let's hope this one brings you reliability!
 
I do hope so!
if the machine shop was correct and dirty build/contamination was the issue then it should be the end.
Cranks clearly fine and not bent or whatever because they balanced it.

Worrying that I found so much metal dust in the pump inlet though. Surely that's not right?!

Update:
Got the engine almost ready to start but no start yet.
Afew little things held me up but want to get this done as properly as possible.
Things like reroute the oil return line for the new sump, cutting the gearbox brace for clearance on the sump aswell.
In also running all my oil take offs from a sandwhich plate now instead of taking the pressure gauge from the oem point with a tee piece.
Got the oil temp in the sump now aswell, had to pack a cv with extra grease aswell so it's all those little things really....
 
Things left are
Clean up cam cover and breather lines/can
Clean and gap spark plugs
Fill with oil
Connect pressure gauge and we are good to start!
 
I'll try a firmer setting at japfest2 next weekend. The whole suspension needs a re bush and abit of an overhaul so that's a winter job.
 
So she runs.
Oil pressure on idle is very low 13psi at 90c. Is fine driving though so I won't think too much of it just yet.
Still a mad rush to get this car ready for japfest2, waiting on oil cooler/oil/front brake discs and still got to get miles on the engine before the track session.
 
Have you checked for small leaks around the oil sender unit/t piece/how ever your running it.
 
I did have a small leak there yes. Far as I'm aware I've fixed it with no real difference in reading.
 
Yeah I know! Must have developed over the evening because I could feel a wobble through the brakes.
Was the brake pad trying to keep the wheel upright!
Knackered a set of pads but they needed changing soon enough anyway
 
Next update,
Running engine in still, has around 180miles on it now. No smoke or serious issues like that yet.
Oil pressure is still the same and not getting worse so that's good I suppose, have some 10w-60 Miller CFS coming, hopefully that arrives before japfest2 or I'll be on 10w-40 still. Alittle worried about the idle pressure when the oils up at like 120c(hard track session)

Tegiwa oil cooler kit was delivered, fitting this when the new oil arrives and the engine is run in(ish)

Rear brake pads had seen better days!


Cleaned up the front calipers and regreased everything so should be good for plenty of trackdays!



Brake specs are
Carbon Lorraine rc6 and mtec grooved discs upfront(couldn't get brembo blanks :(

Ebc yellow stuff and mtec grooved rear
Standard calipers without ABS
Gulf RF1000 brake fluid
 
I think your front discs are the wrong way round side to side. The vanes are supposed to be facing backwards if that makes sense...
Swap them over side to side.
 
On these discs I'm not sure it makes a difference tbh.
If the vanes inside the disc where directional then I'd be concerned but they aren't.
I've run these discs before like that, no issues and after the battle I had with these today I'm not changing it lol
 
I have been repeatedly assured (after being told the opposite on here) that 50 and 60 viscosity oils are not suitable for b series engines due to skinny oil galleries.

Oilman has previously linked to an article on Opie about it but I can't find it.

Of course at the end of the day its up to you, but I'm sticking with 40 fully synth.


What make is your oil pressure gauge? At 120 degrees I have seen under ten PSI.
My fix? A Stack oil pressure gauge rather than a 15quid ebay special.
 
I'm using a stack mechanical gauge.
I'll give it a shot and see how it goes.
 
If the oil pressure is low you need to fix the
issue - using a higher viscosity oil will not fix the problem. Take the oil pump off and inspect it - it most likely needs replacing.
 
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