Jesse888 Forged/stroker turbo ek9


jesse888

Ek9+Turbo+Nurburgring= Heaven
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Updates.
Nothing huge.
Had to order hardrace rear LCA bushes as the energy kit doesn't include them.
Had a seized bolt that really didn't want to come out. First port of call is always fire.

This didn't work so I moved onto hammer, which didn't work....
Grinder then! Had to cut it twice but I got there in the end. Luckily I had a spare bolt in my bolts box!
So quick trip to garage to press the old ones out and new in.
Back home for paint.

Quick splash of paint, ignore the state of my garage lol
I've got half an ep3 in there ATM.

I've had a leaky rad pipe for quite a while now, thought it's time I fixed it.
Took a chance on some TTracing hoses from eBay.
The quality of them is actually very good, I'd compare them to samco easily which is a nice surprise!


So you'll remember me complaining about the cars top speed up the hill at the ring. Well I'm onto diagnosing and fixing that, I'm guessing it's heat related as the car pulls strong on the road/start of the lap but slowly lost power through the lap.
Considering I was running roughly 300hp I was no faster up the hill than when I was 200hp.. Clearly an issue then.
My first step is to move the oil cooler closer to the intercooler, avoiding a large gap between heat exchangers is a good thing, if not the air Inbetween basically stalls and reduces the effectiveness of both my intercooler and oil cooler.
Also moving that forward allows me to fit this....
 


jesse888

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Tegiwa dc2 rad, so it's full length against my current koyo half rad. Now when I had a working water temp gauge the koyo rad would peak at roughly 95c then come down. This was on a short uk track and running around 50-60hp less than at the ring. So I think the rad was being overworked but I have no proof of that. eirher way I'm going to be better off with this rad over a half, esp when I decide to run full boost on track...

So this means I need to strip the front end down again lol
Here's how I left it today
 


jesse888

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So ek9s had its MOT, straight through which is handy!
According the MOT testers brake test machine(measures weight of each axel then does some maths) the car weighs 948.7kg. I'm not sure thats accurate as I was sitting in the car aswell.(tester couldn't get in my seat lol)
Anyway
Since then I've got my tegiwa dc2 rad on.
Forgot that I had to remove both rad and aircon mounts and re-weld in another location! Luckily I can do that sort of thing so got that done.
Sat it over to the drivers side ever so slightly so I've got room to run my oil cooler lines through to the front of the rad.

Underseal on the front end aswell to end that horrid job! Should be future proof for a while longer though so that's good.
Next was to squeeze my 25row oil cooler Inbetween the big core rad and 4+" thick intercooler. I've got it in just not pictured it yet. It's pretty snug in there so nowhere for the air to "stall" like in the old setup.
So came to fill the radiator, chose to use water at first incase of leaks or issues, which there have been afew tbh.
Firstly had a leaky drain bolt, tried to nip it up and it snapped inside the rad(joys). Since fixed that and now I've got a radiator fan and stack water temp gauge issue.
The fan came on the first time but the gauge read 110c(thinking gauge is off) but since then I've had the water in the rad boiling(lots of tiny bubbles and clearly not right) and no fan....
So these are the two issues stopping me from getting the car back on the road again.
Will be doing all the fan investigations and playing with the wiring for the gauge. I'm less than happy with the stack electric gauge ATM tbh. I would expect far better accuracy for a basic wiring job. I think it's a resistance issue but time will tell.
 


Leej8

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That what I was going to say check resistance in radiator wiring,
 


jesse888

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I meant for the gauge but yeah the fan issue too...
I'm not that great with electrics so it takes me ages to diagnose small issues.
I have to visualise the electricity going through the wires and doing its thing in the components to get anywhere lol
Proper mechanical brain lol
 


Leej8

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Haha I'm not great myself with electrical stuff ,
If not for sites like this I'd be lost lol,
 


jesse888

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Yeah this site is a god send for things like this.
Found a handy diagram posted on here basically telling me what I need to check. Hopefully I'll find it.
 


jesse888

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So after going around the houses checking everything even trying spare sensors I had.
Turns out the wiring too the plug for fan switch was dogdey.
Abit of fiddling with that and the fan comes on spot on everytime.
Now the gauge was another tricky one.
Played about with earth locations and we've found the best solution is two earths to the one point on the gauge.
Having a spare gauge temp sensor with two wires instead of the standard stack separate earth job means I can just straight wire the whole thing together tomorrow.
So it's looking good! Found another seeping brake line so I'm borrowing a tip top professional quality flare tool from a buddy and making enough lines to replace the whole lot of needs be in the future aswell as just fixing the leaky flares.
Getting close to being track worthy again!!
 



b16 mini

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1997 Ek9,1996 ek4 siR, 1972 b18c4 mini
Just a note on the whole gauge thing, is your spare sensor with 2 terminals a stack sensor?

If not there's a good possibility it will read incorrect as different aftermarket gauges work on different resistance
 


jesse888

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Just a note on the whole gauge thing, is your spare sensor with 2 terminals a stack sensor?

If not there's a good possibility it will read incorrect as different aftermarket gauges work on different resistance

Yes it's a two wire job.
I've tried both sensors at the same time and the reading was very similar. One was in the filler neck and the other in the coolant pipe.
Now I've got it to actually work I'll run the car up to temp again and try both sensors knowing the engine is up at 92c-ish
I've seen some large numbers on the gauge because of the fan not coming on but also some issues with the wiring of the gauge so im suspect of its accuracy anyway.
One minute it reads 110c and the water is clearly boiling then the next time it reads 110c I've got my hand in the water so clearly not reliable ATM
 



jesse888

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Yeah although it's been off the road since the ring trip it has all been necessary stuff and the brakes are now fantastic compared to how they where before, I'd need a trackday to properly test them but the pedal feel on the road is great.
Full underseal/rust bust and rebush aswell, these are all large jobs so glad they are done before the winter actually settles in.
 


Banana

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You can have one cookie...

dhf2e.jpg


As you said the gash jobs are best to get out the way before the bitter nights set in takes sometime to underseal them, think i spent 2-3 days doing mine :/
 


jesse888

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I'll take that cookie!
Not about laying in a wet road in freezing temps if I can help it lol
 


jesse888

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So good and bad news today.
Good news is I've fixed the gauge and that's now working and accurate, the front end is all together and I hope I've fixed afew water leaks into the cabin.

Since I've fitted the full length rad I can't run my filter to the grill anymore, means I need to route it back to how I first had it...
Reach around style

Bad news is I've found another leaky brake line flare!
Can't wait to get this professional tool on the job! May even reroute the whole lot just to be sure.
 


Leej8

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First thing ,not bad news, good news is that you spotted it!
And will fix it better than before.
Clad you sorted your water temps/gages.
Good progress all the same , she be running right as rain very soon so?
 


jesse888

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Yeah I've already reflared half the lines but I can't stop some from leaking a tiny amount of fluid.
My buddy says he had the same issues and was pulling his hair out a year ago trying to sort all the leaks, hence he bought this super expensive tool to see it right.
So it should be over soon lol
Yeah after these lines then all the car really needs is an alignment and it should be good to go again..
 


Leej8

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Great news and good work ! I'd say your super excited to take her on some B roads , by the way you've been working you will sort the lines out in no time ,
Iv watched your ring videos and she drives really well
Was it a injector fault after all ?
 


jesse888

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No. I believe it to be a T-piece that had got too hot and melted shut.
Meaning no wastegate control so the engine couldn't control its boost pressure.
Shame really that b16b was a good engine!

I should have the tool tomorrow but I've got limited brake line left so waiting on a delivery of that aswell.
 


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