Jesse888 Forged/stroker turbo ek9


jesse888

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Spoke too soon again, really not sure what's going on with these brake lines.
Going to give it one more shot then I'll see about ordering up some braided lines instead.
 


b16 mini

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What you using to cut the lines before flaring them?
 


jesse888

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Pipe cutter. Then deburring the edges etc with a file.
Obviously doing something wrong somewhere but as far as I can tell I'm doing it by the book
 


b16 mini

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That shouldn't be your problem then, only thing I can think of is that the ends are some how being work hardened,
Are you lightly lubricating the tool? Must be something simple causing this
 


jesse888

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Im using brake fluid as a lube ATM.
I've tried different fittings and different brake line but not having any luck for some reason.
 


jesse888

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I might try using anew pipe cutter. Mine takes a fair while to get through the pipe so could be work hardening it as it rolled around it.
I've yet to check the new line for cracks in the flare but I can only assume this is the cause of my leaks as the unions are correct and the flares are always perfect thanks to the tool.
 


Leej8

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Don't know if this is of any use to you m8

I notice that when I use the pre-formed flare on purchased tubing, I generally have a leak-free fitting, whereas when I make a double flare on that same tubing, I sometimes have a leak. I'm not sure why my flares don't seal as well as the "store bought" flares.

Another issue is flare angle. If you're trying to mate hardline to a 37 degree fitting, you need to have the 37 degree flaring tool, not the MUCH more common 45 degree unit.

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More good hints !

I never even thought about the 37 degree deal but good point.

BTW, soft copper flare gaskets are available at refrigeration supply houses if you have a real problem.

I've been flaring coppper tubing for so many years (quite a few that have had to hold three or four hundred PSI of refrigerant pressure) that I've just about become an expert but I sure can't seem to get the hang of making a decent double flare on steel tubing.
clonk.gif

(maybe I need a better double flaring tool)

Another tip is to debur the inside of the copper tubing, and use oil when making a flare then don't tighten the tool down quite all the way, let the flare nut finish the job.
 


Leej8

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Another tip from the pros

When you do the last step with the flaring tool don't tighten it down tight, just snug.Leave a little to finish forming/seal when you tighten the nut on the fitting.
This tip works very well.
 


Leej8

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And one more from the pros hope it helps

Line up the male and female joints together. Hand tighten the female sleeve nut until tight.

2
Attach an adjustable wrench to the male side if it is not firmly mounted to a plate or a beam. If not mounted solidly, such as a brake line fitting, the male side will have a coupling nut that is only used to stabilize the connection while the threaded nut on the female side is being turned.

3
Attach a torque wrench to the female side sleeve nut. Specific flare nut applications will require that you follow exact torque wrench tightening ratings for correct flare nut tightening. Obtain these torque ratings, either by Internet research, manufacturer's specifications or automotive instruction manuals, before attempting proper tightening of the flare nut.

4
Tighten the flare nut to the values stated for that application. A leak will occur where the cone enters the flare. Loosen and tighten the flare nut several times to the torque specifications. This action will positively seat the cone into the flare. If the joint still leaks, dissemble the connection and wipe off the flare and the cone with a rag. Many times a particle of dirt, rust or another foreign object will lodge between the flare and the cone. This object must be removed before a successful seal will occur.

5
Tighten a steel tube flare line 1/6th turn past the specified torque rating to stop a leak. This extra tightening can only be done on a steel flare line; a softer aluminum or brass line may become compromised and break apart.
 


jesse888

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Thanks for the tips.
Iirc the 37degree flare is for AN fittings and the 45 is standard brake line.
I've been leaving the flare half formed aswell, tried tightening and loosening several times aswell.
I get the particle of dirt thing so I'll check that out next time incase.

Checked the lines today and I'm down to two leaks ATM
Both on the same line so atleast that's a simple remove line and fiddle about job, not removing multiple lines and having to run them again etc.

Thanks for the research bud, you've come up with afew bits I can atleast try/check.
 



jesse888

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So took the offending line off and ran some pressurised air into the sealing surfaces to clear any grit, wiped with microfibre and refitted. Time will tell I suppose lol
 


jesse888

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Two nights gone now, no leaks as of yet but I've not bleed the system up or driven the car yet.
Looking positive though!
I'm away for a 5days now so won't get a chance to fiddle about until next weekend.
 


Leej8

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Bit of luck it holds off:naughtyx: , them lines got alot of your attention !
 


jesse888

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Yeah poxy brake lines, can't believe the trouble I'm having for such a simple thing tbh
 


robthedoc

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I had mega issues with brake flares once and it came down to two things.... using a DIN flaring tool instead of an SAE style and the male pipe ends being threaded all the way to the end. This probably doesn't help but I feel the need to be involved in your build thread hahaha
 


jesse888

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I've noticed the threaded issue actually.
On the master cylinder you need it threaded all the way down otherwise you've got maybe 3-4threads holding it down and you can't really torque it properly. But on the tees you need the thread to stop halfway down otherwise it bottoms on the tee before clamping the flare properly...
I'll look into the din vs sae flares aswell.
Unfortunately I'm away and can't et at the car all week. Going to kill me lol
 


Leej8

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Ah Jesse ,you left the poor car bleeding out ,you might have to give her cpr when your back !hahaha O.J,
;)
 


jesse888

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So I've not touched the car for two weeks.
No leaks when I checked it Monday but again haven't bleed it yet. Hoping to get that done today.
Been fighting many urges to buy parts the past 2 weeks lol
Nearly bought a gtx2867r and some monster springrate coilovers. Managed to resist, so far....

Need a trackday to stop me modding it further
 


SPek9

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So I've not touched the car for two weeks.
No leaks when I checked it Monday but again haven't bleed it yet. Hoping to get that done today.
Been fighting many urges to buy parts the past 2 weeks lol
Nearly bought a gtx2867r and some monster springrate coilovers. Managed to resist, so far....

Need a trackday to stop me modding it further



winter is time for modifying!! What sort of boost do you run with your current turbo? Have you considered running the likes of a GT3076R and making the same power with less boost pressure which would also mean less heat?
 


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