matts ek9


everything has been taken into consideration from all the various parties whom i thank individually for there input and now would like them to delete their posts as this is my build up not a debait page! thanks again

matt
 
ijwhiteman said:
Toddy please feel free to show me where i have slated and named any tuner? :angry2:



I fear on ITR pistons as we have been arguing over what they have used for 24hrs...



I am concerned. I have spoken to my tuner and he has advised other wise. Also noted that the injectors are already maxed on a stock B18C with I,H,E so how is it going to control any form of heat management with internals aswell.... :angry2: Not to mention that higher compression brings more heat with it naturally.



Thank you another tuners opinion! :dance:

TODDY, you are a VERY good mechanic but for god sake leave it at that! You are not a tuner or an engine builder! Leave it to the experts! I have seeked advice on Matts set up and do not believe what you are doing to be safe and reliable!

This is my last post on this subject as all i appear to be doing is banging my head against the wall.

Let me just make this very clear. I am not ranting and raving for the shear hell of it! Like i said to Matt he has put a lot of money into his investment and none of us want to see that ruined! We care that is all! :thanks:
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Not sure there was any need to say Toddy aint an engine builder or a tuner mate.

I understand what you are saying and fair play for saying it. Each to there own at the end of the day. I am sure Matt has spent just as much time researching as you have.

Matt, Mr Whiteman is not having a go, he is simply trying to help. Could we all please calm down and remember we are mates with the common goal of enjoying our Hondas.
 
Martin I'm not slagging toddy of just stating the fact. What worries me most is something as basic as the pistons was overlooked as to what ones they where. Now the MOST important thing is being misunderstood. The map!
 
Matt they can be removed if you really wish but it will help people for future so my advice is keep it.
 
yeh whatever dont mind, just want to get it tuned now and enjoy it
 
Matt is going by what Romain has advised, which might be different in some other tuners eye. He cant get it mapped sooner because Romain is busy and haven't run it in enough as advised.

Just cant wait to vtec it too matt:drive:
 
I can't see how driving the car to the tuners with no mileage at all on the newly built engine, then revving the crap out of it to get a decent map can be healthy for the car at all? Surely wearing the engine in gradually would be more beneficial? Especially as matt has been driving like 'grandma' (witnessed on a passenger journey) therefore putting minimal stress on the engine. However I'm a central heating engineer and not a mechanic or tuner.
 
Plenty of engines get run in on the dyno, despite belief by many you don't need a lot of mileage to run a engine in.
 
Vtec6000 said:
Plenty of engines get run in on the dyno, despite belief by many you don't need a lot of mileage to run a engine in.
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Exactly that! New cars and motorbikes don't need to be run in anymore because technology and tighter tolerances allow it. In the old days when tolerance where not as good an engine needed running in. Not no more! Engines run better make more power and last longer if you just drie them normally! I'm talking about manufactured vehicles not custom builds. Most of the time is is only to seat rings to the bore. For example my engine is going to require no run in at all! Google it there are a no. Of methods for running or breaking engines in. Reality driving a car gingerly runs it in in a bad way as the engine will be tight in the high rpms and make less power than one that is just driven properly from day one! Providing correct mapping and tolerances allow it. Plenty of info about.
 
Engine mounts turned up today, big thanks to stevie at EightSpeed for sorting us out! Made by Innovative 75A track spec. once these are fitted you can do away with the little support bushes. one on the front of the gear box and one on the front of the engine.

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Run the same durometer rated mounts in mine but in billet, you will be spending ages fixing rattles as a result of the cabin vibrations :lol:
 
yeh ive got loads of rattles as it is steven, but **** it got em for good price and will be sweet on snetterton in march :))
 
ijwhiteman said:
According to the sales man :secret: Read fast bikes they will tell you different.:secret:
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exactly, engines should be driven hard from day 1.
When me and my mate raced motocross we used to re build our bike engines, we would heat them up then drive them properly for 20mins then change the oil. That would be the bike run in.
 
oh and btw this is a great thread matt , has been good reading through it
 
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