Spark Plugs & fitting


Nathbot

Nathbot

Almost tracked EK9..
Joined
May 17, 2008
Messages
275
Hi,

Ive just got some NGK BKR7E-11 spark plugs for my EK9 after searching on here for advice.

I'm still a bit dubious as whether to fit these or get some iridium ones? I here that these copper ones are fine, as long as they are changed with every oil change every 6k miles or so. Any input on this would be appreciated.

My other question is a bit of a daft one really, but I've never actually changed spark plugs before. Done lots of other stuff, but never done this myself. Is it as simple as undoing the old ones and replacing them with new ones? Or is there more too it that I dont know about? like cleaning anything down? torquing them up correctly? inserting in a certain way etc etc.

I know it may sound daft, but like I said I' never done spark plugs before and if you don't ask, you don't know :D

Cheers Guys

Nath
 
if the plugs you have are the correct part number then fit them,

quite simple to change,

remove and change 1 at a time, lube the thread slightly with coppergrease and dont overtighten them.
 
Tighten them up and once they get tight only give the 3/4 of a turn..Dont over tighten as you will do the treads in
 
I haven't checked the part number with Honda or anything. Thats what I'm saying, I read on here that some people use these instead of expensive iridium ones, but they change them more often.

So I just wanted to check whether they would definately be okay or not, as I dont want to fit them if they aren't obviously. :D
 
It is much better to use cheaper ones and change them together with every oil change, Iridium plugs dont usually last up to the quoted life span especially on an untune engine. Untuned engines generally run rich and blot out the plugs over time, which will cause some misfiring.

Hope that clears your thoughts.
 
Thanks for that Jugbugz, I'll get to fitting them. :nice: along with my new spoon HT leads

Just wanted to be sure :)
 
jdm 3383 said:
Tighten them up and once they get tight only give the 3/4 of a turn..Dont over tighten as you will do the treads in
Click to expand...

3/4 of a turn after it tightens up? I would say that's wayy too much. I think 1/4 turn is more in the ballpark.

Nathbot, you have to torque your plugs correctly (simply put in this thread as don't over-tighten) to 156 in/lbs or 13 ft/lbs. And inch pounds torque wrench will be much more accurate, but tightening a little bit more by hand after the plug contacts is good enough.

Before installation you HAVE to gap the plugs, because they come un-gapped for your motor. The best way is with a feeler wire-type gauge. I don't know about the B16B exactly, but the USDM B18c5 is .044". If you want, go a bit bigger.

You also want a spark plug socket at 5/8". This will have a rubber bushing inside that keeps the plug with the socket. Otherwise you'll have a hard time getting them out after you unscrew them. It also lets you gently insert the plugs, without just dropping them in.

During installation sometimes the plug stays with the socket- the extension falls off as you try to pull the socket away from your plug. The best way to avoid this is to duct tape the socket and extension together. THEN you have to make sure the rubber bushing inside the plug socket actually came out with the socket.

When you do insert the new plugs, just use socket and extension at first to thread them in, this will avoid cross-threading.
 
Some good advice there on fitting!
Make sure there is no loose dirt or anything that could fall down into the combustion chamber when you are removing the sparkplugs too! good luck with it!
 
Dino Spumoni, thats an awesome lot of info for me! I appreciate your help.

Thanks very much for that, I will be fitting them at the weekend and will let you know how it goes :thanks::thanks:
 
Sorry to be a pain guys, but I've just been looking on the net to try and find the correct plug gaps for the B16B and I've found lots of different answers, so now I don't know which to use? :nono:

Ive had 0.044, 0.051

And now have just found this thread that says 1.1mm??!!

http://www.ek9.org/forum/engine/11602-spark-plug-gap-correct-ngks.html

I dont know what gap to set my plugs at now!! Also on that other post, it says that BKR7E-11's are pre gapped? does that mean I just put them in as they are? But that would mean they are gapped at 1.1mm?

Im confused and don't wanna get this wrong.

Can you help me out again guys. Sorry to be a noob pain in the a**

Thanks :bow:
 
Dino-Spumoni said:
During installation sometimes the plug stays with the socket- the extension falls off as you try to pull the socket away from your plug. The best way to avoid this is to duct tape the socket and extension together. THEN you have to make sure the rubber bushing inside the plug socket actually came out with the socket.

.
Click to expand...

hence whey I have one of these instead (not the exact one, but a MAC or was it snap-on? given to me)

Amazon.com: Kastar 528 3/8" Drive Magnetic Spark Plug Socket 5/8": Automotive

After using one of these, you'll wonder who was the idiot that came out with the rubber bushing version....and then realize "damn...I'm an idiot for having used that sh1t for so long!!" :D
 
RagingAngel said:
hence whey I have one of these instead (not the exact one, but a MAC or was it snap-on? given to me)

Amazon.com: Kastar 528 3/8" Drive Magnetic Spark Plug Socket 5/8": Automotive

After using one of these, you'll wonder who was the idiot that came out with the rubber bushing version....and then realize "damn...I'm an idiot for having used that sh1t for so long!!" :D
Click to expand...
I already feel pretty dumb for not having thought of that. But it was probably already invented before I ever changed a spark plug.


Nathbot, plugs don't really come pre-gapped. Plus, somebody could have messed around with them if you got returned ones.
I would just try .044. If for some reason you get misfires with that, just make the gap smaller. But I'm sure that will be fine. You could probably go with quite a bit bigger gap if you wanted.
 
ive always used those magnetic extendable pick up shafts, drops in and strong enough for intial screw in.
 
Nathbot said:
Sorry to be a pain guys, but I've just been looking on the net to try and find the correct plug gaps for the B16B and I've found lots of different answers, so now I don't know which to use? :nono:

Ive had 0.044, 0.051

And now have just found this thread that says 1.1mm??!!

http://www.ek9.org/forum/engine/11602-spark-plug-gap-correct-ngks.html

I dont know what gap to set my plugs at now!! Also on that other post, it says that BKR7E-11's are pre gapped? does that mean I just put them in as they are? But that would mean they are gapped at 1.1mm?

Im confused and don't wanna get this wrong.

Can you help me out again guys. Sorry to be a noob pain in the a**

Thanks :bow:
Click to expand...

The '11' in BKR7E-11 means the plugs have been pre-gapped at 1.1mm at the factory. However, I would prefer to double check the gap myself. Personally, I've had good results with 0.95mm.
 
Okay, thanks for the info guys, Ill be trying it out today :dance:
 
Some experts on ek9.org should make thread's like this one and make them sticky.

Better would be with some grapics or video's for users like me that has a small understanding for english.

I can sound stuppid, but I was breaking my head to figure out what the term GAP means in spark plugs. LOL

I allways had used NGK, and never thought about measuring the GAP, but getting to know what exact it is now, 1 mm should work good for every one while installing sparkplugs in a B16 or B18 engine!

I learned new things today!
 
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