What to do with my K20 and Coupe?


Airwolf

Airwolf

New Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2010
Messages
185
Hi everyone

im in a bit of a tough spot at the moment and a bit of help would be appreciated as have a lack of knowledge in the teg and EK department. im Ok on Ep3 models.

My dilema is as follows, i own 2 cars, a Civic EP originally a 1.7 Diesel, i bought a 20k mileage K20 (£3000), and converted it this conversion cost £1200 in parts and labour. However i had a minor accident and now the car will be broken and sold, Except the K20, gearbox clocks etc. because i absaloutly love the engine.
i Bought a 1996, 1.6L Coupe. (I think is classed as a EK?)
Now my plan was to drop the K20 in the coupe Which is alot lighter, alot better chassis and superior handling to the EP in my oppinion.
However yesterday when i spoke to my machanic for a quote (as im nearly ready to do the coupe Conversion)
However my mechanic laid a bombshell on me, he said because the k20 is situated mount wise on the driver side (compared to the coupe's which is passenger side) he'd need to cut and weld and basicly cause a big hassle to get it fitted correctly and quoted me a whopping £2500 for the conversion... which theres no way in hell id pay for.... unless i get desperate.... which i might.
But he did persuade me to do a few of the following. Swap the K20 for a Teg DC2 engine, B18C i think its called.... sell the K20 and the coupe and by a import dc2.
Id LOVE to have a teg, but the insurance is ridiculous (im 20) i know i could get cheaper quotes but dont know where.
So... im kinda stuck.
When i got home i thought there must be some way around it to get a k20 in the coupe easier, so i searched and searched for other people have the same problem... and engine mounts look like they could help perhaps? and reduce the price from that awfull high £2500.

any suggestions or advice guys?

REALLY appreciated.
 
How is a DC2 import harder to insure than a modified K20 coupe....? Unless you don't tell them of course.
 
dno just big insurance difference.

unfortunatly wouldnt buy a ek9...yet, im a big fan of the rear end of a car looks wise and hatchbacks dont do it for me, so i like saloon's and coupes. dont get me wrong ek9 is a nice car but just not really me
 
HA!

2500 fitted with the parts nessecary to fit supplied is a ****in bargain.

And you dont really need to cut or weld anything.
 
689R said:
HA!

2500 fitted with the parts nessecary to fit supplied is a ****in bargain.

And you dont really need to cut or weld anything.
Click to expand...

u sure?
to convert the 1.7 diesel was £1200...

and just because its a coupe, which is already a petrol its double the price?
i thought it was really expensive cause i thought converting the diesel was a bigger job than the coupe, but looks like i was wrong because the 1.7 diesel was still same shape and engine bay as the civic type r ep3. the coupe isnt :(
 
DC5 Engine/box/ecu on 36k - £3000. (personally the oem ecu was a waste of time as I needed more sensors and work to use it, meaning more money, aftermarket ecu makes more sense from the getgo).
Hasport EKK2 mounts - £550.
DSS 2.9 driveshafts - £780.
Golden Eagle fuel rail - £130.
Aeromotive FPR - £165.
Hybrid Racing ECU conversion harness - £150.
DC5 shifter box - £100. (You may want to factor in the cost of a mounting kit here, I just stuck mine on the transmission tunnel, some 10mm alluminium plate was needed for this - same size as the box.
DC5 Shifter cables - £180.
Fuel line kit (filter to rail) - £50.
AEM Swap Intake - £80.
Kpro/tune - £1000.
New oem clutch - £200.
Alluminium radiator (full width) - £240.
DC2 Donor parts: Forks/LCA/Subframe/Rack - £150. (MAKE SURE YOU GET THE DC2 BOLTS WITH THESE!)
Fuel filter/Rad hoses/braided hoses - £100.
Bearing kit/bits & bobs (gearbox) - £not sure.
Various sensors/fan switch etc - £not sure.
Washer bottle replace bag - £not sure.
SSR Header - £500. (See early in the thread for my issues here, no matter what else was up with it, it could only go in one postion on the actual engine - this was hard against the ABS pump - so whichever header you buy you may need to lose the ABS or move it pipes and all.)

rough pricing from someone on here thats done it, bit more than 2500 eh
 
thanks for the perspective 689R
but it is... a different conversion all together than the one im intending.
Besides i have all the parts (including engine gearbox ecu etc... which cost me £3k)
yet for the conversion itself and any minor parts needed to fit the engine its £2500
compared to the £1200 i paid doing the same conversion to the 1.7 diesel.
was just checking that the price jump is justified? Or perhaps a cheaper alternative

i will be going down the route of a Jackson racing super charger on the k20 early next year...
 
Im sure there are correct mounts for the coupe, have you been on k20a.org for info?

Are you saying that excluding engine/box/ecu, you converted the deisel civic to the K20, and parts/labour came to £1200?
 
sorry 689R didnt mean offence

i think ill have a bash at k20.org
but so far u guys all agree that 2500 excluding engine and parts is a good deal? If so ill take it due to all of your experience

yeah Haitch £1200, had to weld a different gearbox mount, but not much really needed done. But all together including engine, ecu, exhaust system induction etc. whole conversion cost £4500.

one last thing, whats the exact model number of my coupe? does it count as an EK?
 
Its an EJ6 if its a D series at the moment. So yeh still a EK.

What does the 2500 cover? is that just labour? or is that all the parts listed above and labour?

If its the latter its a ridicolously good deal, but I have the feeling it wont.
 
689R said:
DC5 Engine/box/ecu on 36k - £3000. (personally the oem ecu was a waste of time as I needed more sensors and work to use it, meaning more money, aftermarket ecu makes more sense from the getgo).
Hasport EKK2 mounts - £550.
DSS 2.9 driveshafts - £780.
Golden Eagle fuel rail - £130.
Aeromotive FPR - £165.
Hybrid Racing ECU conversion harness - £150.
DC5 shifter box - £100. (You may want to factor in the cost of a mounting kit here, I just stuck mine on the transmission tunnel, some 10mm alluminium plate was needed for this - same size as the box.
DC5 Shifter cables - £180.
Fuel line kit (filter to rail) - £50.
AEM Swap Intake - £80.
Kpro/tune - £1000.
New oem clutch - £200.
Alluminium radiator (full width) - £240.
DC2 Donor parts: Forks/LCA/Subframe/Rack - £150. (MAKE SURE YOU GET THE DC2 BOLTS WITH THESE!)
Fuel filter/Rad hoses/braided hoses - £100.
Bearing kit/bits & bobs (gearbox) - £not sure.
Various sensors/fan switch etc - £not sure.
Washer bottle replace bag - £not sure.
SSR Header - £500. (See early in the thread for my issues here, no matter what else was up with it, it could only go in one postion on the actual engine - this was hard against the ABS pump - so whichever header you buy you may need to lose the ABS or move it pipes and all.)

rough pricing from someone on here thats done it, bit more than 2500 eh
Click to expand...


this is by far the only way to put a k-series engine in an ek, eg, dc2, crx etc

i am currently doing this on my race dc2 just parts alone costed me little over 2500 and thats including the kpro, but i bought used parts, engine wise i sold my std k20 and i am on the look for k20 race engine N/A of course as am not really into F/I
 
its a D series engine i think 1.6L non vtec 1996. Guessing all cosmetics like new bumper etc. that fit a EK9 etc. will fit the coupe?

Well the guy thats gona do the coupe conversion is the same guy that did the diesel one, so he knows all the parts that ive got on the diesel are there. But his words were... £2500 should cover the full conversion (including any parts to help fit the k20 in there)

Edit: just seen the last post there
wow guessing there is a massive difference between the EP and the EK model to fit a k20, didnt realise it would be that big.
 
Eff mucking about with a coupe and having the work done by someone who doesn't even know how much it will cost let alone how to actually do it.

Honda : JDM 98 spec K20 swap

^ It's all done, it's cheaper than getting it done yourself, it will handle a thousand times better, it looks a thousand times cooler, it will be a thousand times more sellable and is a thousand times better looking than some coupe with a body-kit and a bodged K20 swap.

If you can insure a K20 coupe, you can insure a K20 DC2 surely.
 
It really does depend on the individual, final use of the swap, road/track and the quality of fitting & parts. What driveshafts did you go for Airwolf? Or a parts list?

typeR.jdm, some good fortune snapping up Dixons old bits as used swap parts in UK are very rare, money you may save buying used from the US is added back on in shipping/tax, that and dealing with unknown sellers in a different country.
 
The guy doing it didnt have a massive long think about it, he gave an estimate, thats all i wanted. The work he does is always to a fantastic standard, and never had any problems with the converted type r on the ep3.

apart from that ive done quotes and a teg is ridiculous to insure compared to the coupe. unless u have insurance companys that might be cheaper for a guy my age (20)

if so id sure as hell buy a teg.
the coupe isnt that bad a car to do it in, aye i might need to add in a LSD and some other handling features, but chassis wise its sound, and will look the part with some minor modification.

hi Haitch, all parts on the converted type R, was all original parts from the original type R except exhaust and a K & N induction. Didnt really need to buy anything else... just small wiring stuff and different headlights.
part from that fairly easy conversion.
 
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