Who's happy with B16B power?


Holy shite dude, sounds good :D Got a topic with specs or something? Don't wanna ruin this topic ;)
 
Nice one IJ you know it makes sense!!

now get some overtime done and Buy your 9!!!!
 
kaks_EK9Rx said:
Whats the spec list mate ;)

PM me it instead :p as were over-riding IJ's thread here..
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Nah that alright.

Hell of a lot smoother than i was, and very fast mate!

5th is to long IMO bit of a jump from 4th to 5th.

Makes me want to just keep the B16B look quick enough to me....:bow:
 
ijwhiteman said:
As most of you know i trashed my car and am strongly considering a EK9 but i'm a bit concerned about the lack of power and torque which is making me consider an EP3 (K20).

What are your views especially those who have been on track with the B16B.

Don't suggest a engine swap...

Thank you
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**** the ep3 unless its a JDM one, i had one before and much prefer the ek9 and i can pull from them too and my b16b is standard :)
 
EK9!!! just spend what ur gonna spend on the ep3 on the ek's engine :D

Plus the most of the EP3's where made in swindon UK right???
 
I dont think Bigskank is using the 4.78FD, add that to the shorter gears and even with the longer 1.000 he is using and its a perfect road/track compromise.
 
If money is a factor (i.e Insurance costs etc.), you don't mind limiting your top speed to around 105-110mph and is mainly a street car, then just keep your EK4 and modify your transmission (LSD and Gears). Will be cheaper and quicker (depending on the driver :p) than a stock EK9 on the street.

There you go, no change to insurance costs yet you get an instant 30% increase in useable power :)
 
MFactory said:
If money is a factor (i.e Insurance costs etc.), you don't mind limiting your top speed to around 105-110mph and is mainly a street car, then just keep your EK4 and modify your transmission (LSD and Gears). Will be cheaper and quicker (depending on the driver :p) than a stock EK9 on the street.

There you go, no change to insurance costs yet you get an instant 30% increase in useable power :)
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Thanks for your input but the EK4 is dead. I have a a B18C and would like to gear that also just being lazy as not sure i want to do an engine swap again. I have since driven a 9 with breathing mods it was ok but not a touch on B18C. Think i will get a final drive kit also. My car doesn't need to do more than 120.... Its all about the acceleration... :D

What would you recommend gears or final drive. It is a street car with use on track and the nurburgring.

I am set on putting my B18C in a 9.
 
You would have to play around with the gearing calculator, and determine what speeds you require in each gear. This is very important as you will be taking your car to the track.

If it was only a street car, who really cares about top speed? In this case, you would just change to the shortest gearing possible (whilst keeping 5th gear sensible for the occasional high-speed jaunt on the freeway)
 
That is something I was thinking also, but I'm afraid that when I shift from 4th to 5th gear on the Nordschleife it will fall back way before it's VTEC point....and then I'm f00ked, especially on som parts where the Nordschleife goes up.
 
MFactory said:
You would have to play around with the gearing calculator, and determine what speeds you require in each gear. This is very important as you will be taking your car to the track.

If it was only a street car, who really cares about top speed? In this case, you would just change to the shortest gearing possible (whilst keeping 5th gear sensible for the occasional high-speed jaunt on the freeway)
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Well i'm pretty happy with gears i like the way they are spaced out. Final drive will probably suit me better.... Perhaps a 4.785 B18C....

_JT said:
That is something I was thinking also, but I'm afraid that when I shift from 4th to 5th gear on the Nordschleife it will fall back way before it's VTEC point....and then I'm f00ked, especially on som parts where the Nordschleife goes up.
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Your not wrong there mate! Hoping the B18 will cope better because of the extra torque...
 
ijwhiteman said:
Well i'm pretty happy with gears i like the way they are spaced out. Final drive will probably suit me better.... Perhaps a 4.785 B18C
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Although the spacing is important (as it determines your rpm when you shift), this is not the main reason for the increase in acceleration. The job of a close ratio gear set is to keep you in the powerband, not to increase power. You can have longer gears that are also close ratio, but these actually decrease power.

Torque multiplication is the main reason, and the more numerically higher your gear ratio, the more power you will be putting to the ground.

Gear Ratio x Final Ratio x Torque = Torque to the ground
 
MFactory said:
Although the spacing is important (as it determines your rpm when you shift), this is not the main reason for the increase in acceleration. The job of a close ratio gear set is to keep you in the powerband, not to increase power. You can have longer gears that are also close ratio, but these actually decrease power.

Torque multiplication is the main reason, and the more numerically higher your gear ratio, the more power you will be putting to the ground.

Gear Ratio x Final Ratio x Torque = Torque to the ground
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Wow complicated or what! lol

So ideally i want shorter gears with a closer ratio?

I'm even more confused I do have a severe cold so i'll blame it on that...
 
Close Ratio Gears = Gear Ratios that are numerically "close together". Helps to make the most of the power available by keeping your engine within its powerband
Short Gears = Numerically Higher Ratio
Long Gears = Numerically Lower Ratio

Torque = Acceleration. The torque produced by your engine is laughable and, for the most, insufficient to accelerate your car faster than a snail. This is where Torque Multiplication comes in (for any gear in your transmission):

Gear Ratio x Final Drive Ratio x Torque = Torque to the ground

Example (If you had 115lbft engine torque):

OEM 1.458 3rd x OEM 4.4 Final Drive x 115lbft = 738lbft to the ground
MF 1.695 3rd x MF 4.928 Final Drive x 115lbft = 961lbft to the ground. That's an increase of 30%
 
MFactory said:
Close Ratio Gears = Gear Ratios that are numerically "close together". Helps to make the most of the power available by keeping your engine within its powerband
Short Gears = Numerically Higher Ratio
Long Gears = Numerically Lower Ratio

Torque = Acceleration. The torque produced by your engine is laughable and, for the most, insufficient to accelerate your car faster than a snail. This is where Torque Multiplication comes in (for any gear in your transmission):

Gear Ratio x Final Drive Ratio x Torque = Torque to the ground

Example (If you had 115lbft engine torque):

OEM 1.458 3rd x OEM 4.4 Final Drive x 115lbft = 738lbft to the ground
MF 1.695 3rd x MF 4.928 Final Drive x 115lbft = 961lbft to the ground. That's an increase of 30%
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WOW :bow:

Perfect thank you! oooo i'm getting excited again...

:secret:I feel a weapon of a 9 being built....:secret:
 
For B18 I reckon, MF ratios..

3rd - 1.625
4th - 1.296
5th - 1.000
+4.78FD.
 
haitch said:
For B18 I reckon, MF ratios..

3rd - 1.625
4th - 1.296
5th - 1.000
+4.78FD.
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I think that may be to unpractical, 17mph extra in 3? 20mph in 4th? Topping out at 120 mark...

I think just a 4.928 FD keeps the top end fairly reasonable.
 
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