Jesse888 Forged/stroker turbo ek9


Keep positive, sure you will be fine this time round!
Practice makes perfect and all that sort ad stuff!
 
Yeah I'm positive enough, I've proved swapping engines isn't much more than 2 days work so if all else fails I'll have a b18c4 in there.
Ironically it's cheaper than rebuilding my forged block everytime(rings,pump,bearings,hone,run in oils and filters etc)
Either way it's coming to and end lol
 
Little update.
Been taking this to work all this week. Got around 150miles on it now. I'm off work tomorrow so plan is to get up early and stick another 150ish miles on it in the morning.
Hopefully have close to 1000miles by the time I get the money to rebuild the turbo(suspect bearings)
The compressor wheel feels like it's dragging against something when I turn it with my fingers so it's worth a look I think.
Soon as that's done its book a track evening at brands and see how many laps it lasts lol
I'll be sure to film every stint this time so you guys can see it go.
 
Left the remains of the previous oil change in a clean tub and left the filter upside down aswell.
I wanted to see visually how much metal was being up into the oil, this should allow me to judge how it's progressing. If there's more then it's bad, less obviously good.
I can't find anything online that shows pictures like this just a lot of posts asking if abit of metal is normal in a rebuilt block. Obviously useless to me because how much is too much? If any?
So this is from the first start and 40miles driving

The metal is mostly black with afew silver flakes in.
The next oil change will be around 600miles when I'll put some synthetic in so if there's proportionally more metal in the oil then there's most certainly a problem. If there's same or less then it's heading in the right direction...
Anyone with experience with exactly this please chime in....
 
Over 300miles on this now.
Ran fine so far. Should have this batch of oil dropped for some synthetic end of next week so can see how it looks....

I've been tracing coolant leaks for a while and it seems to be getting worse.
It seems to be pushing past the hose clips and seeping out.
I've got a 1.3bar rad cap so maybe it's that pushing past the old hose clips. Think I'm going to replace the leaky ones with jubilee clips and see how it goes then.
If it's not the clips then perhaps it's over pressurising some how.
No overflow into the expansion chamber so I'm doubting I've got a headgasket leak....
Found afew spare clips and made sure the hoses where snug, seems to have fixed the coolant leaks.
320miles down.
 
Last edited:
I had the same issue years ago with the stock hose clamps with a 1.3 bar cap. Used Jubilee clips and all was good.
 
Yeah I think that's what it was tbh.
Engine got its first motorway miles to try and get the pressure up high.
 
Yeah It's hard to know what to do tbh, so many different views on it, I've been doing it my own way that I may do alittle thread on one day explaining why I think doing it a certain way is best etc.
Literally just my veiws on the subject, no real evidence to support
 
jesse888 said:
Yeah It's hard to know what to do tbh, so many different views on it, I've been doing it my own way that I may do alittle thread on one day explaining why I think doing it a certain way is best etc.
Literally just my veiws on the subject, no real evidence to support
Click to expand...
Do a thread ;) need to do mine when it's done
 
over 450miles on it now. Want to change the oil tomorrow as its pissing down ATM! Going to put some synthetic oil in then I can begin to Rev it I think.
Been really tempting to rev it right round but I've resisted with small bursts upto around 6.5krpm with 0.45bar, not keen on seeing 8800rpm at 1bar boost on mineral oil tbh lol
Been tracing gauge issues and I now need a new oil pressure gauge, so will get one of those installed before I hit some serious boost/revs.
Hopefully get my other SPG fitted soon with another 4 point harness so I can show the civic to friends on track.
New gauge as mentioned
Then I want to get the alignment sorted, I haven't had a proper GEO on this car since I bought it and I've had the steering rack apart and all sorts since. Cornerweighting too if budget allows!
 
Feels great to think about other parts of the car than the engine for a change!
Been neglecting the rest of it abit tbh so got abit of work to do...
 
Next pic will probably be another crankshaft.
Same silver metal on the sump plug....
Must be the crank.
I'm hoping to get away with just throwing the crank in with new mains and main cap bolts. New oil pump and start her up. Won't need to run it in again then so should find out very quickly if that's fixed it or not.
Obviously finding a b18c crankshaft is the first hurdle.
 
Has your block ever been align honed? (Main caps skimmed and mains re honed)
 
Not that I know of mate. Unless it was done in Japan but I highly doubt it.
 
That's ok then, some times when they have been align honed it can cause problems with oil pumps
 
Yeah it sits the crank higher in the pump.
Not the case unfortunately.
 
Yep exactly, it makes the pump clearance to tight.
are you going to check that crank with a dial gauge or just bin it in favour of a known good one now?
 
I'm thinking a known good one mate.
Not sure what else it could be tbh.

I can't quite remember fully but the bearings in main cap closest to the oil pump seemed alittle worn compared to the others when I removed them. Stupidly I didn't picture them and just went straight to sorting it out.
Perhaps this proves my bent crank theory after all and I was too blind to even think about it? I should find out with the new bearings when I take the crankshaft back out....Or I'm making stuff up in my mind now lol

Imbalance? The Pistons and rods all weighed the same within 0.5grams and with the fluidampr you'd expect it to atleast slow the wear down, it's exactly the same as it was before so I'm doubting that.

Perhaps the cranks got too much wear on the thrust faces and it's moving in and out too much, kissing the housing of the oil pump?

Cam caps out of alignment? You wouldn't have thought so with how well the b16b crank ran inside it but back to my bearing story above i suppose it's possible?

Main cap bolts over stretched from being reused? I'll replace them with the new crankshaft to rule that out but I doubt it tbh.

Trying to find all possible avenues to explore as I've only got 15weeks till I leave for Germany.
I do feel the crankshaft or atleast the bottom half of the bottom end(if that makes sense?) is too blame, be it the crank, the bearing caps alignment or the bolts I don't know.
This engine is basically trial and error now tbh.
Been to two machine shops, one I don't trust and the other was telling me the last failure was due to dirt ingress, clearly wasn't.....
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top