Not really too sure what to do now...


SPek9 said:
Get a healthy B16b back into her that hasn't been opened since it was built in the Honda factory in Japan :nice:

You could build the B18 again and then end up worrying everytime you drive it hard incase the same thing happens again :nerv:
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I totally agree 100%. Who ever retro builds engines in the uk will not have the specialised equipment Honda have in there engine plant. OEM Honda is best IMO.

Rich777 said:
Have you got some good close up pictures of that bearing what failed ? I'm puzzled why a main failed. Something must not have been right from the rebuild.
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Didnt realise it was a main bearing that went. That is strange.

Dunx
 
tama666 said:
NICE SIG! :nono:
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I'm just messing around.... I know, it might upset some. Theres some truth behind it though (not the converting from Honda bit)....

I want to see some close up pictures of that bearing. I'm gutted for you Tim. Hopefully it turns out good this time around :)
 
Lee s said:
Spoke to Daz at DNR (built more b20s in the uk than anyone) and he says it's fine to regrind cranks.
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If its done at the right machine shop with the right process then yes. I wouldnt trust your avarage machine to do such a task.
 
Don't sell the 9 you will regret it trust me I do! Get a standard b16b in there and enjoy it :)
 
Lee s said:
Im sorting out the b20 once and once only. After that it's dc5 or s2000.
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The problem is having to start all over again with everything else (roll cage, suspension, brakes....)

tama666 said:
...its hard to upsell when you have the best...lol. best FWD that is. Either RWD or AWD is the only path I can see if I were in your shoes.
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FWD is more my style but I'd be keen to try AWD Turbo...

type-r-dunk said:
Hi
IMO the cheapest way to get it up and running is to stick your R head on a stock B20 bottom end. Then quick re-map and your off running all for about £500. Either that or get a old reliable B16B back in her.
If you decide to sell or px as is let me know.
All the best Dunx
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Def worth thinking about...

SPek9 said:
Get a healthy B16b back into her that hasn't been opened since it was built in the Honda factory in Japan :nice:

You could build the B18 again and then end up worrying everytime you drive it hard incase the same thing happens again :nerv:
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Very true, but I don't think I could handle going backwards so to speak.

689R said:
aha wasnt trying to sell the s2, keeping it now i reckon.

I do miss my jordan, had more memorable 'events' in it, but I am glad I have the s2k now and not the jordan for one day every two weeks and a shite daily every other day.
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LOL, that's my worry too... I have the EJ as a Daily so my second car could be anything really... and your words on another thread also ring true... LOL:

689R said:
The car itself is amazing, but heres a story for you, with a civic you can be a big fish in a wee pond, with an s2k/m3/evo(the other cars i was looking at) your a small fish in a big pond. you always want to be the baller in the small pond.
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stevenEK9 said:
sell you my B16B Tim :nerv:

seriously!
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PM sent your way

sammyb said:
3 engine failures?!?! jesus is your middle name unlucky???
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It is mate, started off with a mint B16B that I sold on for a mini build - then had a stroked B16B that started burning masses of oil - then got completely ripped off by some devious **** with a B18C4 that was suposed to be amazing but blew up a couple months later - then decided to rebuild stoked B16B with all new parts and machining which lasted 2000 miles and spun a bearing. :(

ijwhiteman said:
You know my opinion mate. Selling you 9 IMO is simply not an option.
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I know mate - it is the dogs danglies when its going. :)

Lee s said:
Spoke to Daz at DNR (built more b20s in the uk than anyone) and he says it's fine to regrind cranks.
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Spoke to Daz too about this - still don't really like the idea...

Skar said:
quick Q - is your sump baffled or anything? could this not be caused by oil starvation? curious as you said it happend on the ring... :/
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Yes moroso baffled :)

Rich777 said:
I think you should work out what went wrong and rebuild it. Never give up on anything, no matter how bad it gets you down. Have you got some good close up pictures of that bearing what failed ? I'm puzzled why a main failed. Something must not have been right from the rebuild.
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Can do mate, I believe it's got something to do with the swarf that killed the other oil pump...

Rich777 said:
I want to see some close up pictures of that bearing. I'm gutted for you Tim. Hopefully it turns out good this time around :)
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Hope so too mate :nice:

ek9cub said:
Don't sell the 9 you will regret it trust me I do! Get a standard b16b in there and enjoy it :)
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Cheers mate :nice:
 
You won't be going backwards if you buy a healthy b16b AKA stevenEK9's engine that you know pulls very well and has been maintained properly.

With a properly mapped b16b you will only be 10bhp down from a standard mapped B18C with the added bonus of not burning masses of oil or failing like the other b18's you have had. All you need to have the edge on another std B18c is sort out the gearing!
 
Lee s said:
Im sorting out the b20 once and once only. After that it's dc5 or s2000.
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I don't know why u swopped a reliable b16 for a b20 I would have put the money else were
 
SPek9 said:
You won't be going backwards if you buy a healthy b16b AKA stevenEK9's engine that you know pulls very well and has been maintained properly.

With a properly mapped b16b you will only be 10bhp down from a standard mapped B18C with the added bonus of not burning masses of oil or failing like the other b18's you have had. All you need to have the edge on another std B18c is sort out the gearing!
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I agree I'm running a b16b s80 gearbox ek9 4th and 5th gears and a 4.79 final drive haven't tested yet but I reakon its going to be nuts. B18-b20 = known engine fails fun but expensive if they go wrong as I have learnt lol
 
I've bought a couple B16b engines now and it's a total lottery, you have to buy an engine which you know personally to be sure of anything. Good luck in whatever you choose :)
 
You could always get a price for a brand new Spoon blueprinted B18C engine assembly from Spoonsports.co.uk/Funkypower

Or try Honda to see how much a brand new DC2 bottom end or full engine would be, a few guys on the ITR-DC2 forum have bought new engines from Honda

This way, if you service it properly it will last you a lifetime! but when buying a new engine you would want to be keeping the EK9 for a long time
 
689R speaks sense

vti2010 said:
I don't know why u swopped a reliable b16 for a b20 I would have put the money else were
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I'm sure Lee weighed up the pros and cons before making a change....i'm sure he appreciates your wisdom though ;)

B16b's are great, but you can get to the stage when you fancy a change....
 
Your block may be warped which is why you have had main bearing failure and will continue to have problems unless you scrap it and start with another block
 
Vtec6000 said:
Your block may be warped which is why you have had main bearing failure and will continue to have problems unless you scrap it and start with another block
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never heard of a warped block, don't even think that's possible on a b-series. to much space between the liners and block casing for any serious heat to transfer between the two. i think you'd have some serious head warping before that ever happened.
 
I think he mean the mains being off line. If the crank wasnt stored correctly/droped it could be that to. Its why i want to see that bearing what failed.
 
Topher-EK4 said:
don't know if it is intentional but you make me LMFAO at so many of your comments lee. :lol:
DV8 shame its come to this way of thinking dude. hope you make the right decision..
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Cos I'm always hopped up on goofballs..
 
Rich777 said:
I think he mean the mains being off line. If the crank wasnt stored correctly/droped it could be that to. Its why i want to see that bearing what failed.
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Any good machine shop would be able to find out for small cost i'd imagine, not saying it's not possible but if the crank was bent you would know about it with some serious vibrations, also a gas nitrided forged steel crank is not going to bend easily but again any good machine shop would be able to check for peace of mind.

I see what your saying with the out the mains being out of line which would make sense.
 
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