Ideal track based suspension


Wazer

Wazer

Well-Known Member
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Jul 8, 2009
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Hi, I'm currently on the search for a full set of coilovers for my Ek9 for some serious track use.

Can anyone recommend any coilovers? I've been thinking about the Tein - N1's w/ pillow ball U mounts and edfc. Have heard they are prone to leaking however..

Regards, :nice:

James
 
Serious Serious Track Work will be things like Nitron or QRS (Quantum Racing Services)

EDFC is useless on the track, so don't waste your money.
You want something that are build around the car, but you also need to know how serious you want to go, what tyres you are using, curb weight, etc...

But I say budget around £2000 - £3000 if you are talking about serious track coilovers.
 
As MeisterR said, you will be looking at spending a lot for top track coilovers such as Ohlins, Zeal and Aragosta etc. However unless your competing and your car is soley for track then I really would not waste your money.

The salt and bumps on the roads will kill them in a couple of years.

I've done 2 trackdays on the MeisterR's and for the money they are excellent, if you feel that you need it a tad stiffer, they do custom spring ratings...

Josh..
 
A few on HOT are running Nitrons, Mark Chese has the pricey ones, drop him a pm.
 
This all comes down to your budget TBH mate

But if the rest of your car is anything to go by then it would have to be the Nitrons for me!:naughty:
 
Thank you everyone for your replies, much appreciated!

However, the dilemma I face now is either getting the car transported to the track or driving there myself.

I've had a little look into the nitron's and they look very, very tempting! I think for now I will sleep on the thought till im 100% certain.

Thanks guys! :nice:

James
 
gimme shout if you fancy some QRS (fully rebuilt/serviced by QRS several months ago)
 
What's your current suspension setup by the way?

Don't mean to sound rude or take the piss, but I see no need for custom Nitrons etc unless you are competeing

Buddy club RSD are good, but if you use the car on street as well then these will last no time, anything with spherical upper mounts and super high spring rates will be too much for the road

Also it's not just down to the coilovers used, most important thing is the overall setup

Choice of bushes, tyres (size/width/compound), ARB size, track width, camber, toe, castor, corner weight, roll centre. All of these will affect how your new coilovers respond to cornering etc

I've done a fair few track days now with buddyclub N+ spec coilovers, yes they're not the most expensive out there but I love them. Plenty of adjustment in them, ran them for about 10k now with no leaks etc

Also, end of the day it comes down to the driver on track, the car plays a big part obviously, but you need to know how to use what you have

I would say to run the car as it is now on track for a couple track days, then you will be able to see for yourself where it needs improved/what needs replaced or adjusted. Looking at the wear on your tyres can tell you if you need more or less camber, keep an eye on how much roll you have etc etc and take it from there
 
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I have tein second time and none of them had leak. Chose from where and how often you will use them.
TEIN USA | PRODUCTS
matrix.gif


I had basic for 3 years now super racing.
But it will be just your choice what to install on your car and how much you would like to shake on a road every they :))
PS: I know people who just cut springs to lower their cars
 
MugenEK9 said:
I have tein second time and none of them had leak. Chose from where and how often you will use them.
TEIN USA | PRODUCTS
matrix.gif


I had basic for 3 years now super racing.
But it will be just your choice what to install on your car and how much you would like to shake on a road every they :))
PS: I know people who just cut springs to lower their cars
Click to expand...

So do i....CHAVS hahaha
 
Cartney_265 said:
So do i....CHAVS hahaha
Click to expand...

good for you, now think about shocks , which was not made for length like this. When you will blow them do not try to bring them to the dealer , crying so they just blow while you was trying get in a corner with 80Kmh . You could but lowering spring , the difference from cutting originals is : get your car lower with harder springs, always better then originals. Damn I hate does. Felt like I was i a cadi (cadilac)
Like I said , everybody are doing what they want to their cars . Want to have turbo in perfectly NA car ,fine for me , do it. But you could just buy turbo car , easier . Because does cars made for turbo. Want to cut springs on your suspension, do it , until this is not my car and I am not the driver.
 
MugenEK9 said:
good for you, now think about shocks , which was not made for length like this. When you will blow them do not try to bring them to the dealer , crying so they just blow while you was trying get in a corner with 80Kmh . You could but lowering spring , the difference from cutting originals is : get your car lower with harder springs, always better then originals. Damn I hate does. Felt like I was i a cadi (cadilac)
Like I said , everybody are doing what they want to their cars . Want to have turbo in perfectly NA car ,fine for me , do it. But you could just buy turbo car , easier . Because does cars made for turbo. Want to cut springs on your suspension, do it , until this is not my car and I am not the driver.
Click to expand...

i really find it hard to understand this statement . back to school i think :dance:
 
J700OCK said:
i really find it hard to understand this statement . back to school i think :dance:
Click to expand...

There are 2 major problem with cutting springs.

1. The actual springs length are shorter.
What that mean is the springs will not be fully tight when the car is in the air... which mean it is possible for the springs to unseat itself.
Not good, and a straight MOT / TUV failure right away.

2. The spring rate are not hard enough.
Because you cut the coil out... the active spring rate will be too soft to protect the standard damper at the lowered height causing the damper to bottom out and eventually fail.


Proper lowering springs have "Progressive" rate because it need to do 2 function.

a. Lower the car.
The lowering spring length need to be same as stock, but it will lower more so it need to start with a softer rate and therefore compress more than a standard spring once on the car.

b. Protect the dampers.
Because the lowering springs just cause the dampers to lose 35mm of compression travel, it will need to have a harder spring rate at the compressed state in order to prevent the damper to bottom out (at at least prevent it as much as possible).

This is one of the reason why they have "progressive" rate... it is because it needs to be soft enough to actually drive on, but hard enough once compressed to protect the dampers... it is an overall compromise.
 
MeisterR said:
There are 2 major problem with cutting springs.

1. The actual springs length are shorter.
What that mean is the springs will not be fully tight when the car is in the air... which mean it is possible for the springs to unseat itself.
Not good, and a straight MOT / TUV failure right away.

2. The spring rate are not hard enough.
Because you cut the coil out... the active spring rate will be too soft to protect the standard damper at the lowered height causing the damper to bottom out and eventually fail.


Proper lowering springs have "Progressive" rate because it need to do 2 function.

a. Lower the car.
The lowering spring length need to be same as stock, but it will lower more so it need to start with a softer rate and therefore compress more than a standard spring once on the car.

b. Protect the dampers.
Because the lowering springs just cause the dampers to lose 35mm of compression travel, it will need to have a harder spring rate at the compressed state in order to prevent the damper to bottom out (at at least prevent it as much as possible).

This is one of the reason why they have "progressive" rate... it is because it needs to be soft enough to actually drive on, but hard enough once compressed to protect the dampers... it is an overall compromise.
Click to expand...

the statement i could not understand is because of the poor english .

I do not agree with anyone cutting springs at all as it is highly dangerous if thats what you are thinking . i am a time served mechanic and mot tester .

Just to clear things up
 
John's right, you don't need a massive sentance, easy to sum up........

Cutting springs is pikey and dangerous, don't do it

Anyways this thread is about track biased suspension, i will delete any further post about chopping springs :)
 
If the man is seriously interested in a set of nitrons I doubt he'll be cutting his springs any time soon:angry2:

Im running buddy club RSD's with quite a solid spring rating (can't for the life of me thing what it is just now) cornering is flat and I find they work well for me. It's the tyres that are letting the set up down
 
Id say Zeal Function series coilovers would be a good bet, i picked up a set of 2nd hand ones in mint condition for £400, handled like it was on rails on the smooth roads
 
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