Spoon Brakes?


don't worry i'm still selling you the discs! i've bought new ones as i'll be running new pads :nice:
 
I've just installed them 2 days ago... bleeding the system was a pain in the ass. I also busted my thumb and sprained it during install. It was my first DIY brake install.

I still have to bleed to system few more times to get it perfect. Will post installation details soon..

All I can say now is, braking is easier. Calipers looks rather small behind stock wheels. Don't really noticed them from afar except something blue.

Theres 4 pistons compared to stock 1 piston. So ofcourse less effort is required to brake. But I must fully bleed the system a couple more times to comment any further.
 
what tools are you using or how are you bleeding them? It's a process that can be done the first time around unless you're go about it the wrong way?
 
RagingAngel said:
what tools are you using or how are you bleeding them? It's a process that can be done the first time around unless you're go about it the wrong way?
Click to expand...

Well I had to pump the front many times, because when I changed the calipers, I let all the fluids in the line run out.

I start from the furthest to the closest, LR, RR, LF, RF.

1. Pump the pedal a few times to build up the pressure, and then hold it down hard.
2. Crack open the bleed valve 1/4-1/3 turn and close it once the pedal reaches the floor
3. Lift foot off pedal, pump again to build the pressure etc etc
4. Until I find no more bubbles coming out of the clear tube, I then move to the next one.

I repeated this about 4-5 times all around.

It feels the same as before I changed it, but hoping it would have been better. Pedal travel is same, but noticed that its shorter on my DC2R and DC5R.

A lot of crap in the fluid, I was happy to see it all cleared out. I used 3 500mL bottles of brake fluid. Castrol DOT 4 and 5.1

Could it be the brake lines? Do these wear out as well?
 
pumping the pedal works in a pinch, but we do not recommend this practice whatsoever.

The reason for this is you're forcing the piston to travel way too far and this could potentially tear the seal in the master cylinder. You're really sh!t out of luck then, and you're left with a leaky system and more money out of your wallet to replace.

You really want a setup like this:
MityVac 7400 - Fluid Evacuator - 7.3 Liter

I use it religiously for all forms of brake bleeding/clutch bleeding. It contains the mess, you don't have to keep pumping, and the best thing is that you don't damage your system.

n835255482_1975517_4219.jpg


The money you spend on this setup, is time saved but also FLUID saved from constantly pumping and second guessing and ending up with a crappy feeling pedal. Do it once and do it right.

Also, in the USDM manual, the proper bleeding process begins with the driver side, in our case, LF then RF, RR, LR.

The ABS system is designed to be bled this way. I suspect it MIGHT be counterclockwise starting from RF for the RHD guys, due to where the master cylinder is placed. Can anybody with the factory service manual confirm this?

Brake lines do wear out, but if you're experiencing a soft pedal, it's most definitely air in the system still. If it's the brake lines causing the soft pedal, you've got a crack and a leak/bulge....very very dangerous!
 
Man, I've searched the web for days on instructions on how to bleed the brakes. Bloody hell, I wish someone would've posted something earlier. sigh.

Well, what I can say is, the method I used is the method everyone uses, even on mags that I've read in the past. I didn't hear about damaging seals in master cylinder?

Well one things for sure is that, it hasn't gone softer than before. Maybe a bit better actually. So I think I'll still have a bit of luck left hehe.

What do you think I should do now?

I know that theres a one man self bleeder in the Auto shops. I don't know exactly what they are or how they operate though. And I know that in the HONDA dealers, they use a small motor pump to suck out the air>
 
That pedal pump method is preached time and time again but it's utterly a waste of time and it's a two person job which really is a waste of even more time...:angry2:I know for a fact that the seals can and do tear. We've gone through two of them already!

I'm sure your car is safe to drive at the moment, but I would definitely suggest you spend the money and get the unit I posted up. Unless you have an air compressor at home, I wouldn't shop for the ones that the Honda dealers use.

I have an air compressor in my home garage, but even then, I opted to use this unit instead (much cheaper!). The other reason being is that it's portable (take it to the track and back!) and I don't have to turn on my compressor which tends to make me unpopular with my neighbors...but fvck them... (that's another story) :D
 
lol I use my compressor all the time... lol

hmm, Well I'll go to the auto shop and see what they have, if nothing good, I'll buy that item you posted up and hopefully I get all the air out. :angry2:

Great help! And just at the right time.

I was going to get SPOON brake lines when I bought the kit, but damn expensive. I didn't think much about it until I knew more about how important the lines are.
 
Trust me... that unit is very well loved amongst my track rat pack!

You will NOT be disappointed. Though it does take some getting used to, since you may not see a completely clear tube of fluid (to indicate no air), as you need to use a flexible rubber hose in conjunction with the supplied plastic pipe(s). This will be apparent when you first use it.

Depending on the quality of the rubber hose you use, there may be a small leak at the brake bleeder screw and between the rubber and plastic mating point. It is NOT because the pump doesn't provide adequate suction. I've tested it in the sense where I've attached it to the oil dipstick and have been able to suck the entire oil pan dry!

Sorry to sound like a paid advertisement, but I've spent so many years doing it the long and wrong way that by using this, it's like a freaking revelation....and I must spread the good gospel!

Forget spoon brake lines. If you're really insistent on paying top dollar for brake line bits...Get the Mugen micro-mesh or Endless.

Otherwise, I really like and have had excellent results with technafit. They are priced fair and I've had no troubles with fitment and quality. They also come in clear, black, red, blue protective PVC sheaths. I recommend clear as you ought to inspect them for signs of bulging/premature failure.

I know you're from down under, but just for reference, I had excellent service from this place:
Technafit Stainless Steel Brake Lines
 
Man, right now I just want to get all the air out. I noticed that SJ doesn't ship internationally? I tried the checkout system.

hmm, $109 doesn't sound too bad. Maybe you can send some to me? Do they ship international?

How much are the MUGEN and Endless lines?
 
Mugen will set you back $350.00 plus shipping.

Endless is more or less in the same range...:angry:

Regarding SJ, you probably will have more luck finding it from an independent vendor on eBay.

If it's really in a pinch, I'm sure our warehouse could help you out! :nice:
 
Thanks man, I hope I can find something locally otherwise, I'll have to try and get them to ship the mityvac.

Thanks! :nice:
 
give it time to bed in! after i fitted my Spoon calipers the pedal felt ok but after i got some miles on them the pedal feel got better and better!!!

pedal feels very firm now with good modulation etc too :nice:
 
Jugbugz
Why don't u try and look for parts in Japan...I think u'll have a bigger choice and less problems with shipping
 
RoadkillerSB said:
Jugbugz
Why don't u try and look for parts in Japan...I think u'll have a bigger choice and less problems with shipping
Click to expand...

I never thought of that, good advice :lol: LOL

Yeh well I'll see what we have here because I want to get it sorted asap. Where I live in, theres a lack of people who 'know how', and many people who 'think how'.
 
stevenEK9 said:
give it time to bed in! after i fitted my Spoon calipers the pedal felt ok but after i got some miles on them the pedal feel got better and better!!!

pedal feels very firm now with good modulation etc too :nice:
Click to expand...

Hey after a few runs, it's wierd because it IS getting better! Pedal travel became shorter, now it's just slightly off my stock DC2R.
 
stevenEK9 said:
spoon do make the monoblock callipers in ek9 and dc2 applications. . . . . .
Click to expand...

Yes they do. However as the Monoblock caliper was indeed designed for the K20A Hondas, fitting the Monoblock also requires you to change to a larger 300mm disc rotor.

The measurements: Length x Height x Depth

Twin Block:
240mm x 95mm x 135mm
2.4 kg
Piston Size: 42.85 + 38.18


Monoblock:
250mm x 75mm x 148mm
2.6 kg
Piston Size: 40.46 + 36.12

Brake Rotor for Monoblock:
300mm
t=26mm

I suppose that if you use the Monoblock on the stock EK9 wheels you might need at least a 5mm spacer. Never seen one myself. The ones in Spoon HQ and Type One always have aftermarket wheels.
 
jugbugz said:
Hey after a few runs, it's wierd because it IS getting better! Pedal travel became shorter, now it's just slightly off my stock DC2R.
Click to expand...


good to hear! i've just rebled my brakes again as i had the car up on stands anyways......... got a few more bubbles out so can't wait to see how they are once the car is going again!!!
 
stevenEK9 said:
good to hear! i've just rebled my brakes again as i had the car up on stands anyways......... got a few more bubbles out so can't wait to see how they are once the car is going again!!!
Click to expand...

Seriously man, The pump that I used sucked out all of the Air easily on the SPOON calipers. Since the Bleed valves are facing UP, air always sits above liquid being lighter, so bleeding the front is TOOO EASY!

I had problems with the Stock rears ones though. Since the valves face 100degrees to the side which is 10degrees facing down from the side(90degrees)... It sucks! Not easy to bleed. You defo need a pump for the rear since air will be on the top parts of the caliper. I dont know why OEM is like that. :angry:

Anyway, I managed to get the bubbles towards the bleed valve but it would just stay there even under vacumme pressure. Problem is, since there is a pressure, liquid and air will just rotate and make it seem like the air is just sitting there moving back and forth.

I solved this by bending the bleed tube upwards...and guess what... yes, the air came out. I just had to have the tube higher and above the bleed valve.

I stil think the rears need some more bleeding due to the design.

Anyway, my brakes now feel much more sensitive. Pedal travel is very short, almost the same as my DC2R like new ITRs. This pump helped BIG TIME! Thanks to Ragingangel! (thanks man)

I'll be doing a write on my own instalation on my Twin blocks with pics soon, where i have time..:nice:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top