Spoon Brakes?


yeah likewise i never had any air at all come out the fronts when i redid them, just the rears!

it was after driving my dads FD2 ctr i wanted to rebleed, the brake pedal has sooo little travel and such a solid feel on that thing it's unreal :wow:
 
stevenEK9 said:
yeah likewise i never had any air at all come out the fronts when i redid them, just the rears!

it was after driving my dads FD2 ctr i wanted to rebleed, the brake pedal has sooo little travel and such a solid feel on that thing it's unreal :wow:
Click to expand...

Exactly What i feel with my DC2R, its like max 3cm travel. :)

My younger bros FN2 CTR also feels the same. Sometimes resting your foot on the pedal causes a heavy brake in. :) Very sensitive!

Mine are getting really close. Its the rears that need the attention. Nevertheless, dont forget to start from the furthest corner to the closest corner for FWD. RWD is opposite.
 
jugbugz said:
Mine are getting really close. Its the rears that need the attention. Nevertheless, dont forget to start from the furthest corner to the closest corner for FWD. RWD is opposite.
Click to expand...

Not exactly. We still have not yet confirmed what the proper bleeding sequence is for the ABS equipped RHD EK9.

On USDM DC2-Rs, the sequence is

-FL
-FR
-RR
-RL

so starting at the LHD driver's position you make a clockwise rotation. Will bleeding the traditional method work with criss crossing or starting from the further location?

The short answer: Yes.

But it could also take longer if you're not familiar with the hardline circuit that feeds the fluid and it will just cause air bubbles to travel needlessly within. I don't know about you guys, but brake bleeding for me lost its notoriety many years ago and upon discovering how to do it properly in the manual, all my "strange" sinking pedal, numb response issues "magically" disappeared.

So until somebody has access to the factory service manual, I will continue to assume and abide by the RHD circuit of starting on the driver side (right) and going in a counter clockwise rotation.

EK9
-FR
-FL
-RL
-RR
 
RagingAngel said:
Not exactly. We still have not yet confirmed what the proper bleeding sequence is for the ABS equipped RHD EK9.

On USDM DC2-Rs, the sequence is

-FL
-FR
-RR
-RL

so starting at the LHD driver's position you make a clockwise rotation. Will bleeding the traditional method work with criss crossing or starting from the further location?

The short answer: Yes.

But it could also take longer if you're not familiar with the hardline circuit that feeds the fluid and it will just cause air bubbles to travel needlessly within. I don't know about you guys, but brake bleeding for me lost its notoriety many years ago and upon discovering how to do it properly in the manual, all my "strange" sinking pedal, numb response issues "magically" disappeared.

So until somebody has access to the factory service manual, I will continue to assume and abide by the RHD circuit of starting on the driver side (right) and going in a counter clockwise rotation.

EK9
-FR
-FL
-RL
-RR
Click to expand...

Hey man, Thats kind of what I said.

RHD EK has the master cylinder on the RH side. So its;

FR
FL
RR
LR

I dont know about the LR being b4 the RR, but I just do it from closest to the furthest from the Master cylinder.

Btw man, how do you suggest bleeding the Rear OEM calipers with the pump since the valve is at 100degrees to the side? The Front is dead easy with the valves facing up at 0 degrees. Any suggestions? I thought about tilting the car?
 
jugbugz said:
Mine are getting really close. Its the rears that need the attention. Nevertheless, dont forget to start from the furthest corner to the closest corner for FWD. RWD is opposite.
Click to expand...

Oh Crap!!!! My bad... I made a mistake....:angry: Sorry Ragingangel
 
no worries... :p

as for bleeding the rears, tilting has worked in the past, but the pump I use draws a lot of vacuum so I never had to fiddle with it too much.

The tip you posted with applying teflon tape or urea grease on the bleeder's thread helps form a better seal which could be what's leaking air. The other way I've done it before is to have somebody pressurize the system by pumping the brake pedal and also using the vacuum pump when opening the bleeder...
 
RagingAngel said:
no worries... :p

as for bleeding the rears, tilting has worked in the past, but the pump I use draws a lot of vacuum so I never had to fiddle with it too much.

The tip you posted with applying teflon tape or urea grease on the bleeder's thread helps form a better seal which could be what's leaking air. The other way I've done it before is to have somebody pressurize the system by pumping the brake pedal and also using the vacuum pump when opening the bleeder...
Click to expand...

Oh man, You dont know how much Brake fluid I wasted trying to figure out WHY there was no fluid coming out but just air! The thing that helped me out was thinking why my SPOON calipers bled so well and easy but the rears sucked! I then took out the valves to have a look at how they were designed and how theyre supposed to work and then figured that the thread on the valves could be worned. So when I tried putting teflon tape on there, MAGIC!!!!!! I was kicking myself at the fluids I wasted! :angry:

Anyway, I recommend everyone to change their bleeder valves to ensure your bleeding isnt a waste of time. :nice:
 
(Note: The reason why I needed teflon tape on the valves is because as you create a vacumme pressure at that point, and if its not sealed properly, air seaps through the thread into caliper and sucked behind the bleeder valves and into the vacumme pipe. Its bascially sucking air from outside and into your pump. So its NO GOOD and not working! And bleeding with a vacumme becomes useless!)
 
RagingAngel said:
Trust me... that unit is very well loved amongst my track rat pack!

You will NOT be disappointed. Though it does take some getting used to, since you may not see a completely clear tube of fluid (to indicate no air), as you need to use a flexible rubber hose in conjunction with the supplied plastic pipe(s). This will be apparent when you first use it.

Depending on the quality of the rubber hose you use, there may be a small leak at the brake bleeder screw and between the rubber and plastic mating point. It is NOT because the pump doesn't provide adequate suction. I've tested it in the sense where I've attached it to the oil dipstick and have been able to suck the entire oil pan dry!

Sorry to sound like a paid advertisement, but I've spent so many years doing it the long and wrong way that by using this, it's like a freaking revelation....and I must spread the good gospel!

Forget spoon brake lines. If you're really insistent on paying top dollar for brake line bits...Get the Mugen micro-mesh or Endless.

Otherwise, I really like and have had excellent results with technafit. They are priced fair and I've had no troubles with fitment and quality. They also come in clear, black, red, blue protective PVC sheaths. I recommend clear as you ought to inspect them for signs of bulging/premature failure.

I know you're from down under, but just for reference, I had excellent service from this place:
Technafit Stainless Steel Brake Lines
Click to expand...

I fully understand what you said! Amen to that.
 
hate to thread revive but can someone tell me where i can get a set of these calipers, cant find them anywhere!
 
Have you tried direct from Spoon Sports Europe yet? (assuming you are in the UK or Europe).

Cheers,
Alex
 
did see them on vtec direct, was hoping to find them a bit cheaper somewhere!
does vtec direct have anything like a showroom so i can go ogle some of the bits (sorry about the thread sidetrack!)

will get in contact with spoon europe :)

cheers thanks for the help!
 
You wont find them much cheaper anywhere and they have 8% discount on Spoon this week! I dont work for them lol:D
 
Old thread, but at least i'm using the search =]

I have spoon brakes too and I have a few questions:
1. It has 2 bleeder nipples on each caliper. Do we do one a time?
2. I'm a RHD DC2R, so my sequence should be away or towards the master cylinder?

ijwhiteman says that TGM says:

Left rear

Right rear

Left front

Right front

which conflicts with the above as stated by jugbugz.

Thanks!
 
RtN said:
Old thread, but at least i'm using the search =]

I have spoon brakes too and I have a few questions:
1. It has 2 bleeder nipples on each caliper. Do we do one a time?
2. I'm a RHD DC2R, so my sequence should be away or towards the master cylinder?

ijwhiteman says that TGM says:

Left rear

Right rear

Left front

Right front

which conflicts with the above as stated by jugbugz.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Do the inner nipple first then the outer.

The above sequence is correct for R/H drive cars you start furthest away from the M/C and work towards it. Hence left rear, right rear, left front inner then outer and then right front inner and then outer.

My brakes have been absolutely fine.

Anymore help needed drop me a PM.

Also thanks for using the search button!
 
Thanks man, yeh I was going to PM you. But like I'm a new member and didn't have enough posts lol.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top