888s will not do anything for speed in a straight line, infact, they may slow you down a little
straight line racing is boring as hell
You forgetting that he had R888s when he did the 14.4?
It's easier, yeah. But not cheaper. You don't need a Hondata S300. Two options:
- Socketed P28/P30 with harness for 100-120 quid
- Streettune done by someone else: 150 quid
That make 250-270 quid.
Other option is to do everything yourself, gain a lot of knowledge an have the ability to do your own tunes, which is handy if you want to change anything on your engine. Cause you can do it yourself without any additional costs.
- Socketed P28/P30 with harness for 100-120 quid
- Streettune package from xenocron.com (wideband, EPROM emulator for realtime programming, USB datalog cable) for 370 quid
That makes 470-490. So for less than 100 quid more you can start doing your own tunes.
- When you have to do a second tune you already spent less money than having it done
- You can tune any other Honda you might get, with OBD0, 1 or 2 and b-series or d-series
- You can start tuning other cars when you have the needed knowledge and earn everything back + more
So many people like revving the stanard engines so high... when I strip engines down that have been run like that theyre out of round at the top of the cylinders and the sideloading is simply excessive which is the cause of this.
It may all sound cool that it lets you rev to that rpm but in reality the engine isnt built to take thsat for any lengthy time.
A spoon ecu is a generic setup, its designed to work on a broad range of set ups. it WILL over fuel and have a more aggressive ignition map to make it "feel" wild. But in reality its more than likely far from perfect.
Im not sure of the avergae price of a Spoon ecu, but a socketed, chipped and tuned Ecu would probably be less money and could be tuned to suit your indivicual mods etc.
An Obd1 conversion harness can be had for less than £100, couple that with a P28/P30 socketed ecu and some one to tune it on crome/ectune etc would be the better option.
Vtec points can only relly be set properly after a car has been on the dyno. as this is the only way to find out the exact point its needed.
When i tune vtec cars on the dyno we run the car up with vtec very high say 7k, then another run with vtec very low ie 3k, than over lay the high and low graphs and you will see a seamless curve where low cam and high cam join to make a seamless transition, its at this point vtec should be set, this will then give a smooth cross over into vtec, the fuel and igntion curves can be tweaked to allow for a virtually un-noticable cross over (as it should be)
As for revving high ie past the peak power other than putting strain on the motor (as EK9turbo said) its pointless, The only reason i can think of to rev past peak is to allow the change up to drop your revs into a prime torque range. (but with out seeing that on a dyno you would never know)
road tuning can be had for as little as £150 and dyno tuning starts at £300 for what its worth through our selves.
Daz
I dont disagree with you that a individual map is better than the generic spoon ECU, but for the simplicity and ease and value for money of the spoon ECU you cant get much better
It maybe isn't the best way to a better ECU, although better than stock, but it IS the easiest and fastest and then it becomes a matter of everyone his own (I believe, English is not my native language ).
We could let the topic die, or we could have a debate about how it works, personally I don't see the harm in it I'd still love to see a direct comparison against the stock ECU. What would that cost? Maybe we could put some money together with a few persons and you could take it to the dyno for a comparison.
It maybe isn't the best way to a better ECU, although better than stock, but it IS the easiest and fastest and then it becomes a matter of everyone his own (I believe, English is not my native language ).