TEGIWA lug nuts.... Shocking quality!


Some of their stuff is good, and proves what a rip off some JDM parts are, however some is poor from what I've seen.
 
I'd never use Aluminium nuts, Steel is the only way for peace of mind, particularly on track.

And on topic of aluminium wheel nuts, I can't believe companies are actually making replica's of D1 Spec nuts lol.
 
Lee s said:
Some of their stuff is good, and proves what a rip off some JDM parts are, however some is poor from what I've seen.
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Yes, by far not everything they make is terrible, but alu wheel nuts are a no no for me in general and the tegiwa ones are not even up to the same standard as other ones are imho. I have no doubts they will defend themselves (I know I would) but I reckon most people (like me) just replace them when they start to look dodgy and don't even bother to tell them. Which in turn might make them think everything is OK when it is not! So I guess the moral of the story is - do let manufacturers know if their product fails even if out of warranty,the decent ones should want to know!
 
Jake123 said:
Lets just make it up as we go along eh,
Most of there stuff is uk made.
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How do you think they do it that cheap?!!?!!? They buy them for under 50% of what they sell them for I don't make it up I am in the trade! There stuff is shite anyone can buy it do a search on alibaba.com bwr etc get there stuff from china too just rebranded.
 
fatbeerboy said:
How do you think they do it that cheap?!!?!!? They buy them for under 50% of what they sell them for I don't make it up I am in the trade! There stuff is shite anyone can buy it do a search on alibaba.com bwr etc get there stuff from china too just rebranded.
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I've never had any luck with them personally. The last item I purchased off them was a thermal inlet gasket and the port matching was terrible. The first two ports lined up properly but the last two were miles off ! Ever since that I've kept clear. I'd rather just pay once for qualtity; than have the ****-about of waisting my time sending stuff back....
 
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i had rays lugnuts and never had problems.
But i payed 160 euro for them

Must say i always torqued my wheels with a torquewrench and no more then 120nm
 
Aluminium nuts that are constructed well and tightened properly will have no problems on or off track.

Even though you cant go wrong with most types of steel nuts there is a lot of hearsay about aluminium versions in general.
 
Sorry for the late reply, only just seen this.

Neil, I have sent you a PM to try and sort this problem out. The 'key socket' will only fit 4 out of 20 nuts. 4 of them are 7 sided to suit the key.

I hope this is the issue resolved, but if you can reply to the PM sent that would be great.

Regards
Johnny
 
Must admit there is allot of contoversy over alloy wheel nuts.

I have seen many old porches with them fitted from factory never had any problems. Have a mate with a caged, plated diff, 400hp+ 200SX Track car, that has been used in many hill climbs, track days and on the road. I swapped a set of 17" R888 for him the other day and noticed not only was he running cheepo no brand alloy nuts but he didn't even have spigot rings on his wheels so the whole weight and forces of the car were held by the cheepo alloy nuts and always had been for the last 4 years.

Had a set of ebay alloy nuts on the civic for about a year never had to re-torque them. I only don't like to use them because I will be swaping wheels around often and I know they don't like repetative removal and refit with an air/electric gun. As they start to round and look shite after a while.

Wonder how many people actualy torque their wheels every time they are off? and what to?
 
Yep I always torque mine unless replacing a punctured wheel on the roadside of course.
 
Iv ran ultralight alloy wheel nuts for years, on track and on the road. Never had an issue.

The problem is alloy nuts NEED to be greases. Alloy will corrode to steel studs if they are not. Also alloy nuts MUST be torqued with a torque wrench as over torquing them will strip the threads very easy. Rechecking torque occasionally is a good tip but iv never had one come loose either.

Just my experiences.
 
Considering there are cars around that run wheel nut torques of only 90Nm. Most Honda's standard are around 110Nm. Most other cars are around the 120Nm mark. And some cars range up to 140Nm. Then your onto bigger 4x4 and vans. which can be any where from 140-240Nm

Would say 110-120Nm is a good safe setting. Is what most people I know who rally run at. Most manufactures have a +/- tolerance of 10Nm.

They are religious on wheel torques where I work. Have to write it on every job sheet.
 
teg boy said:
Iv ran ultralight alloy wheel nuts for years, on track and on the road. Never had an issue.

The problem is alloy nuts NEED to be greases. Alloy will corrode to steel studs if they are not. Also alloy nuts MUST be torqued with a torque wrench as over torquing them will strip the threads very easy. Rechecking torque occasionally is a good tip but iv never had one come loose either.

Just my experiences.
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I would say different. Any grease on a nut or stud will lower the friction between the two , so for the same torque the greased nut travels further on the thread ... you end up stripping threads easier that way.
 
Darragh_K said:
I would say different. Any grease on a nut or stud will lower the friction between the two , so for the same torque the greased nut travels further on the thread ... you end up stripping threads easier that way.
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Iv had customers (when I work for a drift company) snap alloy nuts because they had corroded to the studs. Speaking from experience. What ur saying is true though

Ultralite state 108Nm for referance
 
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