Toda Spec B Camshafts


True. It's either Rocket M22XX's or Toda B's.
I have Skunk2 Tuner Stage II's right not but i feel there more of a drag racing camshaft, which my direction is to Auto X/Circuit now...So looking for something in the middle and higher RPM range...
 
True. It's either Rocket M22XX's or Toda B's.
I have Skunk2 Tuner Stage II's right not but i feel there more of a drag racing camshaft, which my direction is to Auto X/Circuit now...So looking for something in the middle and higher RPM range...

Lots of people upgrade to Pro1 for that extra low and mid + topend bonus over the tuner2. Depends how far you want to take your CR. Pro1 is good for 11CR. After this level, you'd be needing 12CR minimum to make good use of other hotter cams. Toda B/C works much better with 12CR.
 
Lots of people upgrade to Pro1 for that extra low and mid + topend bonus over the tuner2. Depends how far you want to take your CR. Pro1 is good for 11CR. After this level, you'd be needing 12CR minimum to make good use of other hotter cams. Toda B/C works much better with 12CR.

I used to have the Pro1's but the idle on them was harsh and lumpy, which i did not like. So i switch back to the StageII's.
i haven't touched up on the Toda B's spec in detail. What is the recomended CR for them. I'm @ 11.6 right now, but plan on working on the bottom end to increase compression.
 
I used to have the Pro1's but the idle on them was harsh and lumpy, which i did not like. So i switch back to the StageII's.
i haven't touched up on the Toda B's spec in detail. What is the recomended CR for them. I'm @ 11.6 right now, but plan on working on the bottom end to increase compression.

yeh lumpy idle with pro1 is because of tuning. You can get them to run like stock if tuned right.

If you think Pro1 is lumpy then expect more from TODA B. Pro1 is a much better cam compared to Tuner2. You get some bonus topend gain over the tuner2.

11.6CR is alright but 12CR minimum to get the best out of it. All depends on your tuner. Toda A2 would really suit your CR very well. But have not experienced these... heard they do very well, but I'd still go for Pro1.
 
cam degreeing is most advisable for best results and tuning.
 
i agree with ya. it's all about the tuner what it comes down too...
maybe i'll just stick with my stageII's for now. Need to do some more reading...
:nice:
 
yeh lumpy idle with pro1 is because of tuning. You can get them to run like stock if tuned right.

If you think Pro1 is lumpy then expect more from TODA B. Pro1 is a much better cam compared to Tuner2. You get some bonus topend gain over the tuner2.

11.6CR is alright but 12CR minimum to get the best out of it. All depends on your tuner. Toda A2 would really suit your CR very well. But have not experienced these... heard they do very well, but I'd still go for Pro1.

I have heard this statement time and time again, but I have proven it not to be true. I have compared dyno graphs of my setup and cars with identical setups, with more compression using Pro2 cams, which make slightly less power than I do all over the powerband. Tuner 2's everytime:nice:
 
I have heard this statement time and time again, but I have proven it not to be true. I have compared dyno graphs of my setup and cars with identical setups, with more compression using Pro2 cams, which make slightly less power than I do all over the powerband. Tuner 2's everytime:nice:

hmm, I've seen lots of Pro1s make more than Tuner2. Not sure about Pro2. What kind of CR numbers are we talking about?
 
I have heard this statement time and time again, but I have proven it not to be true. I have compared dyno graphs of my setup and cars with identical setups, with more compression using Pro2 cams, which make slightly less power than I do all over the powerband. Tuner 2's everytime:nice:

Is your head "full" ported? Or just factory ported?
 
I am sorry for bumping now.
But, planning to have my b16B stroked to 1.8 in a year.
I saw that mostly guys are recommending to sell it and buy B18C, but here you can't find them :D
Now I am simply buying parts.

So, the question is:
Planning to get ITR Crank + Conrods.
We have 98 Octane fuel or even so called 100 (same 98 with some boosters), so I am not running 93 or so.
Also, want to go with some more agressive camshafts, the questions is what exactly?
I want a normal idle and suitable for daily, mostly doing 10-15km rides.
What will be the best option, to keep my CTR pistons for 12.5 compression or to find something like YCB Pistons and (more firm as I understand) and forged conrods?
Also looking for valve train upgrade.
I am on full breathing mods with 5 Zigen Pro Racer intake, full RM01 exhaust with catback.
Is it possible to get around 200whp using stroked b16b with more compression and tuner camshafts?
 
I am sorry for bumping now.
But, planning to have my b16B stroked to 1.8 in a year.
I saw that mostly guys are recommending to sell it and buy B18C, but here you can't find them :D
Now I am simply buying parts.

So, the question is:
Planning to get ITR Crank + Conrods.
We have 98 Octane fuel or even so called 100 (same 98 with some boosters), so I am not running 93 or so.
Also, want to go with some more agressive camshafts, the questions is what exactly?
I want a normal idle and suitable for daily, mostly doing 10-15km rides.
What will be the best option, to keep my CTR pistons for 12.5 compression or to find something like YCB Pistons and (more firm as I understand) and forged conrods?
Also looking for valve train upgrade.
I am on full breathing mods with 5 Zigen Pro Racer intake, full RM01 exhaust with catback.
Is it possible to get around 200whp using stroked b16b with more compression and tuner camshafts?

Thats a great setup, if you have access to a tuner, and a fully programable ecu, you'll have no issues with a 12.5 compression :)
 
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