What would a K20 EK9 be worth??


Yeah, the price is lower than he suggests. 4500 pounds for parts + a K20A should be enough.

I have even seen a complete package inc engine, labour and parts for 5500.
 
prices would vary depends on what country your from diff prices like , its pricey enough in ireland but i would not go thew the hassle ,
 
_JT said:
Yeah, the price is lower than he suggests. 4500 pounds for parts + a K20A should be enough.

I have even seen a complete package inc engine, labour and parts for 5500.
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Thats more like it. If i were to do the conversion i would pay up to £6K max, sell my B18CR for around £2000 so thats a £4K conversion. That would be reasonable.

Ive been looking and found 2 K20A engines both for under £1800, not sure if box was included but im sure the boxes are not mega money.

Where is this company based mate? Thats a very good price. PM me if you would prefer and you dont mind.
 
id leave it the way it is..
@ek9dan
you have a b18c ek9,what more could you want!!love your car btw
just my opinion
i thought these type swaps would die since money has dried up..:blabla:
 
muiris said:
id leave it the way it is..
@ek9dan
you have a b18c ek9,what more could you want!!love your car btw
just my opinion
i thought these type swaps would die since money has dried up..:blabla:
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Thanks matey,

unfortunately the car i was driving for a year before my EK9 had about 340/350BHP per tonne and i still own the car but its been off road for ages. So power is something that is in my blood, i love it. But as the EK is my car for an occasion commute and fun i figure the easiest way to keep the reliability is K20A and i mean the car is very fast now especially for road but an extra 40BHP on top with the same reliability seems appealing. However the price really doesn't.

Im not saying i will do it as i definitely havent got the money right now, well i have but in my car which im definitely not stripping/selling, but next year i may have the money as i would have payed most of my loan off by then.

Who knows, just ideas for now.
 
You dont 'need' Hondata or Emerald.

You dont 'need' Hybrids bolt in shifter box.

Cost vary on parts and engine package, but a good low mileage DC5 engine/box/ECU with some history will cost 3k, plenty of others around for less but you take a chance. EP3 will cost less but it is down on power and box performance - which if you chase power, you will waste money on later.
 
You don't need the shifter box, but having everything welded requires you to cut in the 9's chassis and requires you to pay money to someone that has to do it, might as well pay that money for a box of which the length of the shifter is adjustable, as well as the length of the shifts horizontally and vertically.

Or you have to be able to weld it yourself; then you only have to buy some weld-in thing for the shifter. But still requires to cut in your 9.
 
EK9dan said:
Thanks matey,

unfortunately the car i was driving for a year before my EK9 had about 340/350BHP per tonne and i still own the car but its been off road for ages. So power is something that is in my blood, i love it. But as the EK is my car for an occasion commute and fun i figure the easiest way to keep the reliability is K20A and i mean the car is very fast now especially for road but an extra 40BHP on top with the same reliability seems appealing. However the price really doesn't.

Im not saying i will do it as i definitely havent got the money right now, well i have but in my car which im definitely not stripping/selling, but next year i may have the money as i would have payed most of my loan off by then.

Who knows, just ideas for now.
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i see,thats some serious power..an extra 40bhp seems nice alright,either way your going to have a classy car:)
also your power to weight ratio would be savage and thats the key to any fast car:blabla:
 
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haitch said:
You dont 'need' Hondata or Emerald.

You dont 'need' Hybrids bolt in shifter box.

Cost vary on parts and engine package, but a good low mileage DC5 engine/box/ECU with some history will cost 3k, plenty of others around for less but you take a chance. EP3 will cost less but it is down on power and box performance - which if you chase power, you will waste money on later.
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Chris,

Is your car ready? will it be ready for the RR day? If so would you take me for a spin?
 
or buy a k swapped ek in the us for 8-12000$ with fully built engine k-pro, wheels, coilovers, seats, 5 lug etc and sell the parts you dont want to use + your engine....... that would definently be cheaper.
 
Dan, car may be ready but I have not had much work since Christmas so its all up in the air at the moment, if it is then count on it, DC2 donor parts are on, just waiting on Tom to build my box and throw in the engine.

Im not using the Hybrid or the Karcept, I doubt it will work out any different in cost, Im not fussed about the look.
 
Ahh thats fair enough mate.

Well if it isnt ready for what ever reason, if you dont mind, at some point i will take a trip down to your area. Some time over a weekend when the weather is a bit nicer? Your not a million miles away and i would greatly appreciate it.

You have the K20a right?
 
I was seriously debating getting it done, I had a passenger ride in a K20a2 EG and it was brilliant, but then I got my dad to drive my standard EK9 with full acceleration along the same road to compare and I started to wonder if it was worth it, though there was a difference, it was not a difference which warranted the money. I would imagine the lightness of the EG would more than make up for the 20 BHP increase of the K20a in an EK shell.

The trouble with the K series conversion is finding the difference between the hype and the reality, I'm still not convinced.
 
My friends stripped 249bhp kswapped EG is my favourite car ever.
 
the egk20 I share with my mates is amazing. Thats why I'm selling my ek9 to be honest! We have put it all together with bits from hybrid racing mainly and its amazing! Vids will come soon of it doing 1/4mile and it out on the street
 
Wow...so your seriously willing to swap the best cornering fwd car in for one that's way worse for straight line acceleratoion? Would have been better to put it in the 9 tbh...
 
dont forget that you will be deleting power steering when you install a K20 which would get old real quick
 
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