My B20B ek9 build up story


Theres nothing wrong with mounting harnesses on seatbelt mounts like in the first picture. I would cross the harnesses over, but that might just be me.


But DO NOT mount them on the cpillar!!Pleese!
 
689R said:
Theres nothing wrong with mounting harnesses on seatbelt mounts like in the first picture.
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What makes you think that?
Another quote from Sparco (USA):

The end attachments of the shoulder harness must also be installed at appropriate angles. The ideal position is anywhere between 5° below and 30° above the driver's shoulder, as seen in part C of the Figure.
If the upper attachment point falls significantly below the driver's shoulder, then a spinal compression injury is likely to occur. In an accident situation, the shoulder belts pull down and back on the torso as they resist the forward motion of the driver. The resultant restraint force compresses the spinal column and will add to the stresses in the spine already caused by the force of the crash impact.
On the other hand, if the trailing ends of the harness are too far above the shoulder (greater than 30°), then two problems can occur. First, tension in the shoulder harness is increased and undue stress is applied to the harness and its structural attachments. Second, excessive angle will
cause excessive motion. If the harness belts are too far above the shoulder, they will provide little resistance to forward motion of the driver's upper torso. The result is impact with the steering wheel and the possibility of neck injury. The shoulder straps should also be 3-6" apart behind the driver's neck to prevent slippage off the shoulders.
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source

What you're essentially doing is mounting the top part of a seatbelt to a lap mount point. In an ideal world you would weld a bar into your cage between the points where the vertical and diaganol parts join just behind your seats. This will allow either wrap over tails to be used or give you a point to weld in some threaded inserts.
I know I'd be pi55ed after I'd spent £200 on a harness to keep me in the seat, only to come out after an accident to find myself stuck in one for life because of where I mounted my harnesses.

Dont get me wrong, I mounted them like this in my FTO and thought nothing of it until I came to building my kit car. When I researched the places I could mount the tails that would get it through it's IVA I realised I had it wrong and was lucky I wasn't in an accident when wearing them. I've positioned them right behind my shoulders now, and am welding in a bar across the roll bar to be at the correct height. For the sake of a few quid and a piece of tube it seems daft not to.
 
man_side.jpg


from takata installation instructions.
 
My cage is bolt in, do you think it would be OK to have a bolt in seat belt bar to go between the diagonal roll bars?
Dunx
 
very nice track 9 you have there :)

Some very nice extras as well sounds like some car :drive:
 
love the video, will be joining you soon but instead of b20 am going k20. gonna have to compare both side by side on track
 
typeR.jdm said:
love the video, will be joining you soon but instead of b20 am going k20. gonna have to compare both side by side on track
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Are you sure, have you spoke to Hiatch as he had no end of probs with doing his K20.
Yours will be quicker due to a lighter running gear and 6 gears all closer together (my 5th about the same ratio as your 6th).
Dunx
 
On my way home from Oulton Park it was evident that the gear box bearings hadn't taken to kindly to the days abuse. They were a little noisy on the way up but whined loads on the way home.

I removed the box and first off found the EXCEDY clutch plate severely worn. Not the actual friction surface but the metal spring housings and there was also a CRACK in the center plate :nono:.

But to make up for this i found a TODA lightened fly-wheel :woot:.

Fitted the new input shaft bearing and seal and also a new 5th gear bearing.

I took a bit of a gamble that a new OEM Honda clutch could handle the hike in torque. My old 250bhp dc2 was fine with OEM clutch so this should. I just couldn't put up with another heavy horrid feeling uprated clutch. No way was i going to put another EXCEDY in there :angry2:

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My last job before leaving for JAE wat to fit one of these.

Actually makes quite a bit of a difference to brake pedal feel. :nice:

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The fitment is not very good, the bolt doesn't line up with the center and the metal pressure pad is too thick to fit in :(. It is a Tegiwa one!

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FreakyParts said:
What makes you think that?
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http://www.msauk.org/uploadedfiles/msa_forms/bluebooks/10/160-195 Competitor Safety.pdf

Refer to page 30 of the MSA rulings above

anything above 45deg is acceptable for competitive use..........

yes if you are serious about racing it's worthwhile however on a car used for trackdays etc it's not of huge importance to everyone

There's an interesting video which shows how even with harnesses mounted in the "preferred" manor can have downfalls, check the submarining in the video

YouTube - Schroth Superior Anti Submarining Mechanism

:)
 
Nice work:nice:you seem to be handy enough around the b-series gearboxes, how bad did the bearings feel when you changed them?You are advised to change gearbox oil after every trackday but a good synthetic mtf should last a bit longer, what oil do you use? I'm using Torco MTF recommended by Mfactory and its very good oil, had Amsoil MTF before but I feel that the Torco is better

I had a bad experience with an exeedy clutch myself and after changing to OEM Honda clutch I would never use anything different on a road/trackday car:)
 
45 is acceptable, 10 degrees is preferred.
My interpretation of that is the more horizontal the belt is, the less chance of injury.
Section 2.1.9 of the same document also says
2.1.9. The anchorage points to the rear should be
positioned so that the strap from the shoulder is as
near horizontal as possible. It should not be located on
the floor directly behind the driver/co-driver.
Click to expand...
Now granted the mount pictured above isn't directly behind the driver/co-driver, but it's not a million miles away.

For the sake of getting an additional bar welded/bolted/fabricated to the cage, it's something I'd seriously consider. If you've gone to the extent of fitting a cage, race seats, stripping out the interior etc, the additional work is nothing for the increase in safety.

Also, submarining is usually found with 3/4 point harnesses. Fitting the 5th and 6th straps (between your legs) stops this as well - provided they're mounted in the right place :)
 
It seems every few threads I read on this board, always end up with someone saying the harnesses arent installed right, etc, etc.

Maybe someone can create a specific thread to discuss this? Gets abit repetitive after reading it over and over in different threads, not having a go at anyone, just saying might be beneficial to put all these facts/rules/opinions, etc down into one specific thread.

Nice car though, how much does that carbon strut brace weight?
 
Dunt worry i will def be sorting out the harness bar before Silverstone on the 5th.
Dunx
 
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